Despite the high cost, the power consumption of semiconductor lamps (LEDs) is much lower than that of incandescent lamps, and the service life is 5 times longer. Scheme led lamp operates at 220 volts when the input signal causing the light to be converted to operating value by the driver.

LED lamps for 220 V

Whatever the supply voltage, one LED is supplied with a constant voltage of 1.8-4 V.

LED types

An LED is a semiconductor crystal made up of multiple layers that converts electricity into visible light. When its composition changes, radiation of a certain color is obtained. The LED is made on the basis of a chip - a crystal with a platform for connecting power conductors.

To reproduce white light, the “blue” chip is coated with a yellow phosphor. When the crystal is emitted, the phosphor emits its own. Mixing yellow and blue light produces white.

Different ways of assembling chips allow you to create 4 main types of LEDs:

1. DIP - consists of a crystal with a lens located on top and two conductors connected. It is the most common and used for backlighting, lighting decorations and displays.
2. “Piranha” is a similar design, but with four leads, which makes it more reliable for installation and improves heat dissipation. Mostly used in the automotive industry.
3. SMD-LED - placed on the surface, due to which it is possible to reduce the size, improve heat dissipation and provide many options. Used in any light source.
4. COB technology, where the chip is soldered to the board. Due to this, the contact is better protected from oxidation and overheating, and the glow intensity is also significantly increased. If the LED burns out, it must be completely changed, since DIY repair with the replacement of individual chips is not possible.

The disadvantage of an LED is its small size. To create a large colorful light image, many sources are required, combined into groups. In addition, the crystal ages over time, and the brightness of the lamps gradually decreases. For high-quality models, the wear process is very slow.

LED lamp device

The lamp includes:

• frame;
• base;
• diffuser;
• radiator;
• block of LEDs;
• transformerless driver.

LED lamp device for 220 volts

The figure shows a modern LED lamp using COB technology. The LED is made as one piece, with many crystals. It does not require multiple pin wiring. It is enough to attach just one pair. When a lamp is repaired with a burned-out LED, it is changed entirely.

Lamps are round, cylindrical and others in shape. Connection to the mains supply is made through threaded or pin plinths.

Luminaires with a color temperature of 2700K, 3500K and 5000K are selected for general lighting. Spectrum gradations can be any. They are often used for advertising lighting and decorative purposes.

The simplest driver circuit for powering the lamp from the mains is shown in the figure below. The number of parts here is minimal, due to the presence of one or two damping resistors R1, R2 and the anti-parallel connection of the LEDs HL1, HL2. This is how they protect each other from reverse voltage... In this case, the lamp blinking frequency increases to 100 Hz.

The simplest scheme for connecting a LED lamp to a 220 volt network

The supply voltage of 220 volts is fed through the limiting capacitor C1 to the rectifier bridge, and then to the lamp. One of the LEDs can be replaced with a conventional rectifier, but the flicker will change to 25 Hz, which will have a bad effect on vision.

The figure below shows a classic LED lamp power supply circuit. It is used in many models and can be removed for DIY repairs.

The classic scheme for connecting a LED lamp to a 220 V network

On the electrolytic capacitor, the rectified voltage is smoothed out, which eliminates flicker at a frequency of 100 Hz. Resistor R1 discharges the capacitor when the power is turned off.

DIY repair

A simple LED lamp with separate LEDs can be repaired with the replacement of defective elements. It can be easily disassembled if you carefully separate the base from the glass body. There are LEDs inside. The MR 16 lamp has 27 of them. To access printed circuit board on which they are placed, you must delete safety glass by prying it off with a screwdriver. Sometimes this operation is quite difficult to do.

LED lamp for 220 volts

Burnt-out LEDs are immediately replaced. The rest should be ringed with a tester or applied to each voltage of 1.5 V. Serviceable ones should light up, and the rest should be replaced.

The manufacturer calculates the lamps so that the operating current of the LEDs is as high as possible. This significantly reduces their resource, but it is unprofitable to sell “eternal” devices. Therefore, a limiting resistor can be connected in series with the LEDs.

If the lamps blink, the reason may be the failure of the capacitor C1. It should be replaced with another one, with rated voltage 400 V.

DIY

New LED lamps are rarely done. It is easier to make a lamp from a faulty one. In fact, it turns out that the repair and manufacture of a new product is one process. To do this, the LED lamp is disassembled and the burnt-out LEDs and radio components of the driver are restored. On sale there are often original lamps with non-standard lamps, which are difficult to find a replacement for in the future. A simple driver can be taken from a faulty lamp, and LEDs from an old flashlight.

The driver circuit is assembled according to the classic pattern discussed above. Only to it is added a resistor R3 to discharge the capacitor C2 when it is turned off and a pair of zener diodes VD2, VD3 to bypass it in case of an open circuit of the LEDs. You can get by with one zener diode if you choose the right stabilization voltage. If you choose a capacitor for a voltage greater than 220 V, you can do without additional parts. But in this case, its dimensions will increase and after the repair is made, the board with the parts may not fit into the base.

LED lamp driver

The driver circuit is shown for a 20 LED lamp. If their number is different, it is necessary to select such a value for the capacitance of the capacitor C1 so that a current of 20 mA passes through them.

The power supply circuit of an LED lamp is most often transformerless, and care should be taken when installing it yourself on a metal lamp so that there is no phase or zero short circuit to the case.

Capacitors are selected according to the table, depending on the number of LEDs. They can be fixed on an aluminum plate in the amount of 20-30 pcs. For this, holes are drilled in it, and LEDs are installed on the hot melt glue. They are soldered sequentially. All parts can be placed on a fiberglass PCB. They are located on the side where there are no printed tracks, with the exception of the LEDs. The latter are fastened by soldering the leads on the board. Their length is about 5 mm. The device is then assembled in the lamp.

LED table lamp

Lamp for 220 V. Video

You can learn about making a 220 V LED lamp with your own hands from this video.

Correctly crafted homemade scheme LED lamp will allow you to operate it for many years. Repair is possible for her. Power sources can be any: from a regular battery to a 220 volt network.

For many years now, we have been using conventional incandescent lamps to illuminate a home, apartment, office or industrial plant. However, with each passing day, electricity prices are skyrocketing, which makes us give preference to more energy efficient devices with high efficiency. long term service and capable of creating the required luminous flux with minimal cost... It is these devices that include LED lamps for 220 volts, the advantages of which we will try to fully disclose in this article.

Attention! This publication provides examples of circuits powered by a life-threatening 220V voltage. Collect and test such circuits is allowed only to persons with the necessary education and permits!

The simplest scheme

A 220 V LED lamp is one of the types of lighting lamps, the luminous flux in which is created by converting electrical energy into a luminous flux using an LED crystal. For the LEDs to work from a stationary household network 220 V, you need to collect the most the simplest scheme shown in the figure below.

The circuit of a 220-volt LED lamp consists of a 220-240 V alternating voltage source, a rectifier bridge for converting alternating current into direct current, a limiting capacitor C1, a capacitor for smoothing pulsations C2 and LEDs connected in series from 1 to 80 pieces.

Principle of operation

When an alternating voltage of 220 V of variable frequency (50 Hz) is applied to the LED lamp driver, it passes through the current-limiting capacitor C1 to a rectifier bridge assembled from 4 diodes.

After that, at the output of the bridge, we get a constant rectified voltage, which is required for the operation of the LEDs. However, in order to obtain a continuous luminous flux, the driver must be added electrolytic capacitor C2 for smoothing ripple caused by AC rectification.

Looking at the device of a 220 volt LED lamp, we see that there are resistances R1 and R2. Resistor R2 is used to discharge the capacitor to protect against breakdown when the power is off, and R1 is used to limit the current supplied to the LED bridge when it is turned on.

Additional protection circuit

Also in some circuits there is an additional resistance R3, located in series with the LEDs. It serves to protect against inrush currents in the LED circuits. The R3-C2 chain is a classic low-pass (LP) filter.

Active current limiter circuit

In this version of the circuit, the current limiting element is the resistance R1. Such a circuit will have an indicator of the power factor or cos φ close to unity, in contrast to the previous versions with a current-limiting capacitor, which are a reactive load. The disadvantage of this option is the need to dissipate a significant amount of heat across the resistor R1.

To discharge the residual voltage of the capacitor C1 to zero, the resistor R2 is used in the circuit.

The device of LED lamps for AC circuits with a voltage of 220V

LED light bulbs are composed of the following components:

1. Base (E27, E14, E40 and so on) for screwing a lamp, sconce or chandelier into the holder;
2. Dielectric spacer between base and body;
3. A driver on which a circuit is assembled for converting an alternating voltage into a constant required value;
4. A radiator that removes heat from the LEDs;
5. The printed circuit board on which the LEDs are soldered (standard sizes SMD5050, SMD3528, and so on);
6. Resistors (chips) to protect LEDs from ripple current;
7. Light diffuser to create an even luminous flux.

How to connect 220 volt LED lamps

The biggest trick when connecting 220V LED bulbs is that there is no trick. The connection is exactly the same as you did with incandescent lamps or compact fluorescent lamps (CFLs). To do this: de-energize the base, and then screw the lamp into it. When installing, never touch the metal parts of the lamp: remember that sometimes careless electricians can pass zero through the switch instead of a phase. In this case, phase voltage will never be removed from the base.

Manufacturers have released LED counterparts of all previously produced types of lamps with a variety of bases: E27, E14, GU5.3 and so on. The installation principle for them remains the same.

If you bought an LED light bulb designed for 12 or 24 Volts, then you cannot do without a power supply. The light sources are connected in parallel: all the "pluses" of the bulbs together to the plus output of the power supply, and all "minuses" together - to the "minus" of the power supply.

In this case, it is important to observe the polarity ("plus" - to "plus", "minus" - to "minus"), since LEDs will emit a luminous flux only if the polarity is observed! Some products may be damaged if the polarity is reversed.

Attention! Do not confuse the DC voltage power supply (power supply) with a transformer. The transformer gives at the output AC voltage, while the power supply is constant voltage.

For example, you have furniture lighting in the kitchen, in the closet or elsewhere, composed of 4 40 W, 12 V halogen lamps, powered by a transformer. You have decided to replace these lamps with LED 4 pieces of 4-5 watts.

Attention! In this case, it is necessary to replace the previously used transformer with a 12 V constant voltage source with a power of at least 16–20 W.

Sometimes similar LED lamps for spotlights in most cases, supplied with a power supply at the factory. When buying such lamps, you should be puzzled at the same time with the purchase of a power source.

How to make a simple LED light bulb

In order to assemble an LED lamp, we need an old fluorescent lamp, or rather its base with a base, a long piece of 12 V led strip,
and an empty aluminum 330 ml jar

To power such a lamp, you will need a 12 V constant voltage source of such a size that it can easily enter the inside of the can.

So, now the production itself:

1. Wrap the tape around the jar as shown.
2. Solder the wires from the LED strip to the output of the power supply (PS).
3. Solder the IP input to the lamp base with wires.
4. Secure the source itself inside the can, having previously cut a hole of sufficient size for the MT to pass inside.
5. Glue the jar of tape to the base of the housing with base and the lamp is ready.

Of course, such a lamp is not a masterpiece of design art, but it is made by hand!

The main malfunctions of LED lamps for 220 volts

Based on many years of experience, if the 220 V LED lamp does not light up, then the reasons may be as follows:

1. Failure of LEDs

Since in an LED lamp all LEDs are connected in series, if at least one of them comes out, the entire lamp stops glowing because an open circuit occurs. In most cases, LEDs in 220 lamps are used in 2 standard sizes: SMD5050 and SMD3528.

To eliminate this cause, it is necessary to find the failed LED and replace it with another one, or put a jumper (it is better not to abuse the jumpers - as they can increase the current through the LEDs in some circuits). When solving the problem in the second way, the luminous flux will slightly decrease, but the light bulb will start to shine again.

To find the damaged LED we need a low current (20mA) power supply or a multimeter.

To do this, we feed "+" to the anode, and "-" to the cathode. If the LED does not light up, then it is out of order. Thus, you need to check each of the LEDs of the lamp. Also, a failed LED can be identified visually, it looks something like this:

The reason for this breakdown in most cases is the lack of any protection for the LED.

2. Failure of the diode bridge

In most cases, with such a malfunction, the main reason is a factory defect. And in this case, LEDs often "fly out". To solve this problem, it is necessary to replace the diode bridge (or bridge diodes) and check all LEDs.

To test the diode bridge, you need a multimeter. It is necessary to apply an alternating voltage of 220 V to the bridge input, and check the output voltage. If it remains variable at the output, then the diode bridge is out of order.

If the diode bridge is assembled on separate diodes, they can be evaporated one by one and checked with the device. The diode must only pass current in one direction. If it does not pass current at all or passes it when a positive half-wave is applied to the cathode, then it is out of order and needs to be replaced.

3. Poor soldering of the lead ends

In this case, we will need a multimeter. You need to understand the LED lamp circuit and then check all points, starting with the input voltage of 220 V and ending with the outputs of the LEDs. Based on experience, this problem is inherent in cheap LED lamps and in order to eliminate it, it is enough to additionally solder all parts and components with a soldering iron.

Conclusion

The 220V LED lamp is an energy efficient device with good technical characteristics, simple design and easy operation, which allows their use in both home and industrial environments.

It is also worth noting that in the presence of some devices, education and experience, it is possible to determine the malfunctions of 220-volt LED lamps and eliminate them at minimal cost.

Related Videos

Hello to all homemade lovers! I have two car LED bulbs that do not fit into my car with their base (I have a classic vaz), and therefore I decided to alter them a little and use them in the same car, but for a slightly different purpose.

Manufacturing process

First of all, I soldered these bulbs together.

Then I took a regular non-working lamp, also LED, but at 220V. Disassembled it. Everything is disassembled very simply, its upper part is on a latch and with a little effort everything can be removed well. Then I removed all the insides, but left the top plate, on which I will glue the bulbs in the future.

Next, I drilled a hole in the base and passed a wire there. You can take the length of the wire at your discretion, but I have about 2 meters.

I glued the bulbs to a regular hot melt glue, as well as a hole in the base.

The homemade product is almost ready. Now all that remains is to connect the "crocodiles" and you can use it. In addition to crocodiles, you can use a cigarette lighter plug.

Light bulb test

Now you can experience this device... We connect the light bulb to the battery and test it. Due to its small size, it can be hung almost anywhere in the car, and due to the fact that it is plastic, it is also not afraid of falls and bumps.

Homemade Super bright LED lamp 7020 36led, Alteration of the lamp 220V to 12V

I decided to show briefly how I translated one of the long-no longer working lamps in the bathroom from 220 volts to 12 volts. With the replacement of the lamp unit with LED strips. Using modern LEDs SMD 7020, consisting of two lines of 18 LEDs each strip, on an aluminum substrate.

These LED lines made only positive impressions on me, since I thought that there was more light from such small LEDs as 3528, 5050, 5630. But after testing the 7020 LEDs, I came to the conclusion that it is too early to write off such LEDs.

For those who make table lamps or zone lighting, and those who want to get the most of light, I recommend trying these rulers.

Regarding tapes 5 meters long, I'm honestly not sure if it will be enough just to stick them to the wall or to the tree. Since the tapes at the maximum permissible voltage heat up well! So keep this in mind and before hard installation, make sure that the temperature is in the working area of ​​the LED, it is not more than 60 degrees Celsius.

peling.ru

REDUCING LED LAMP

It is no secret that incandescent and daylight lamps are gradually giving way to LEDs, which are increasingly conquering the market. LEDs with the same power can give 5-10 times more light than an incandescent lamp, they almost do not heat up and do not emit harmful infrared rays. White super-bright LEDs and LED modules are already being used in technology. The price of LED lamps and modules is, of course, more expensive than ordinary incandescent and fluorescent lamps.

Recently in a store I came across a $ 3 lamp that was bought and disassembled. The LED lamp was powered by a 220 volt mains voltage, the required output reduced voltage was provided by a compact built-in power supply.

The power supply is pulsed, at the output of 12 volts DC. Inside there are 3 super-bright LEDs with a power of 1 watt each. LEDs are connected in series. The disadvantage is that the luminaire was equipped with optics that focus the light into a point stream. To remedy this, the LED board was removed along with the power supply.

After the module with LEDs was attached to the heatsink, which was removed from computer unit nutrition. A heat sink is a must here, since the LEDs overheat, and you need to efficiently dissipate heat. It is desirable that there is thermal paste between the board with LEDs and the heatsink - for better heat dissipation.

The light given off by such a converted lamp is bright white, the consumption of the module is 3 watts, as promised by the manufacturer. The improved cooling allowed a slight increase in the supply current - which further increased the brightness. Then a homemade LED lamp with a radiator was mounted on the wall. Due to the large heat dissipation, overheating is not observed at all. The photographs show the lighting of the luminaire.

Visually, the module gives off as much light as a 40-watt incandescent lamp, in general, I am satisfied with the result.

In the future, there is an intention to completely switch to LED lighting in the apartment and in the personal plot. Author - AKA.

Forum on LED lamps

Discuss the article LED LAMP REDUCTION

radioskot.ru

LED bulbs 220v instead of halogen 12v

Question:

The chandelier has 12v halogens through a transformer. There is not enough light, but the power of the transformer does not allow you to put more powerful lamps. Is it possible to just throw out the transformer and replace the lamps with LED 220V? Is there a difference in the cross-section of the wires for the 12 and 220 sockets?

Answer:

Most likely, your chandelier has small lamps with a G4 base. Everything that is written below is based on this assumption.

And it may not work brighter

You did not indicate the power of the installed halogen lamps, but if it is 20 watts or more, then replacing the lamps with LEDs will not get more light. In general, no way, so that the sellers do not say there in the stores. In the best case, there will be the same amount of light.

A simple solution

If the goal is simply to make it brighter, despite the energy consumption, then it is worth removing the transformer and installing more powerful halogens, but at 220 volts. The available wires to the lamps will definitely be enough with this approach, because currents will be significantly lower. But the heat release will increase - you need to look at the shades to see if they allow such power, whether there will be overheating.

If you use very small G4 halogens, the so-called "little fingers", then it can be difficult to find such at 220 volts - they are, but they are less common than at 12 volts. In this case, you can buy 220 volt halogens on the GU4 base - they are slightly larger, but can almost always be inserted into the G4 base (these bases are usually universal).

How to replace LED bulbs?

If you still want to install LED lamps, then in no case should you buy 220-volt G4 LED lamps. Here we answered why it does not happen powerful lamps G4 and 220 volts. Typical problems for buyers of such "products" are:

G4 lamps at 220 volts do not work well

220 volt G4 LED bulbs flicker

Also see our answer to a similar question.

To replace lamps with LEDs, you need to change the transformer to LED and install the brightest G4 LED lamps that fit in the plafond in size. But, once again - you will not get more light than from 20-watt halogens, in any way at all. But there are also pluses: the power consumption will drop 8-10 times, and the chandelier will stop heating up, i.e. there will be no more darkening of the ceiling above the chandelier.

We described the procedure for replacing the G4 halogen in the chandelier in this answer to the question.

Energy-saving lamps were actively promoted as a replacement for low-energy and unreliable incandescent lamps. The gradual decline in prices for "housekeepers" has led to the fact that they have become almost ubiquitous.

The biggest disadvantage of LEDs is their high cost. It is not surprising that many are engaged in converting energy-saving lamps into LED ones, using the available and inexpensive element base to the maximum.

Theoretical justification

LEDs operate at low voltage - about 2-3V. But most importantly, for normal operation not voltage stability required, but current stability flowing through them. With a decrease in the current, the brightness of the glow decreases, and the excess leads to the failure of the diode element. Semiconductor devices, which include LEDs, have a pronounced temperature dependence. When heated, the junction resistance drops and the forward current increases.

Simple example: source stable voltage outputs 3V, at a current consumption of the LED 20mA. As the temperature rises, the voltage on the LED remains unchanged, and the current rises to unacceptable values.

To eliminate the described situation, semiconductor light sources are powered from a current stabilizer, it is also a driver. By analogy with fluorescent lamps, the driver is sometimes referred to as an LED ballast.

The presence of an input voltage of 220V, together with the requirement for current stabilization, leads to the need to create complex scheme power supply of LED lamps.

Practical implementation of the idea

The simplest power source for LEDs from a 220V network is as follows:

In the figure shown, the resistor provides a drop in the excess voltage of the supply network, and a diode connected in parallel protects the LED element from voltage pulses of reverse polarity.

As can be seen from the figure, which can be checked by calculations, a high-power damping resistor is required, which releases a lot of heat during operation.

Below is a diagram where a quenching capacitor is used instead of a resistor.

Using a capacitor as a ballast allows you to get rid of a powerful resistor and increase the efficiency of the circuit. Resistor R1 limits the current at the moment the circuit is turned on, R2 serves to fast discharge capacitor at the moment of shutdown. R3 additionally limits the current through the LED group.

Capacitor C1 serves to damp excess voltage, and C2 smoothes power ripple.

The diode bridge is formed by four 1N4007 type diodes, which can be removed from the unusable energy saving lamp.

The calculation of the circuit was made for HL-654H245WC LEDs with an operating current of 20mA. The use of similar elements with the same current is not excluded.

As in the previous circuit, current stabilization is not provided here. To exclude the failure of LEDs, in the ballast circuit for LED lamps, the capacitance of the capacitor C1 and the resistance of the resistor R3 are selected with a margin so that at the maximum input voltage and increased temperature of the LEDs, the current through them does not exceed the permissible values. In normal mode, the current through the diodes is slightly less than the nominal, but this practically does not affect the brightness of the lamp.

The disadvantage of such a scheme is that the use of more powerful LEDs will require an increase in the capacity of the quenching capacitor, which has large dimensions.

The LED strip is powered from the energy-saving lamp board in the same way. It is important that the current of the LED strip matches the LED line, that is, 20mA.

We use an energy-saving lamp driver

The circuit is more reliable when a driver from an energy-saving lamp is used with minimal alterations. As an example, the figure shows a rework of a 20W energy-saving lamp for power high-power LED with a current consumption of 0.9A.

Redesigning an LED lamp to power LEDs

Alteration of electronic ballast for LED lamps in this example is minimal. Most of the elements in the circuit are left from the old lamp driver. The L3 choke has undergone changes and a rectifier bridge has been added. In the old circuit, a fluorescent lamp was connected between the right terminal of the capacitor C10 and the cathode of the diode D5.

The capacitor and diode are now directly connected and the choke is used as a transformer.

The alteration of the choke consists in winding the secondary winding, from which the voltage will be removed to power the LED.

Without disassembling the choke, you need to wind 20 turns of enameled wire with a diameter of 0.4 mm on it. When turned on, the open circuit voltage of the newly made winding should be about 9.5-9.7V. After connecting the bridge and the LED, the ammeter included in the power supply break of the LED element should show about 830-850mA. Greater or lesser value requires correction of the number of turns of the transformer.

Diodes 1N4007 or similar, can be used from another faulty lamp. Diodes in housekeepers are used with a large margin of current and voltage, therefore they fail extremely rarely.

All the above schemes led drivers from an energy-saving lamp, although they provide low-voltage power, have a galvanic connection to the AC mains, therefore, when working on debugging, precautions must be taken.

It is best and safest to use a separating transformer with the same primary and secondary windings when operating. Having the same 220V at the output, the transformer will provide reliable galvanic isolation of the primary and secondary circuits.