There is not much difference between the versions, so this tutorial will work for both versions. I myself use CS6 from my own site. ;)
This is a long tutorial, but I hope you don’t regret your time. We turn on the music so that it is not so boring and off you go!

1. Naturally, in order to transfer a drawing to a digital version, it needs to be scanned or photographed.

1.1. First, I'll talk about how you can bring a photographed picture closer to the scanned one. It is best to photograph on a windowsill on a sunny day, on a white surface (if the windows are not plastic), the more light, the better the result will be. Taking pictures in the dark with a regular lamp is not a good idea, since the drawing will be practically invisible.

1.2. So I took a picture of the drawing, in the afternoon on the window, but it is still not so bright, after all, the phone is not a scanner, but, nevertheless, the outline is visible, so you can start Photoshop and start editing.

1.3. Go to Image - Correction - Desaturate or press Shift + Ctrl + U, this is necessary so that unnecessary colors do not appear during the correction.

1.4. Go to Image - Correction again, but now select Levels (Ctrl + L), you will have a window like this:

If you move the black icon to the middle, then the image will have more black colors, if you move white to the middle, then more white, the gray icon as a balance between them. In each picture, these icons need to be displayed differently in order to have a good result. In my drawing, a good option turned out with this arrangement:

Now you can compare and see that the result has become much better.

2. Now that the drawings are almost close in quality to each other, you can proceed to the next stage. Then everything is the same for both options, but I will process the picture photographed, since the corrections will be better visible on it.

2.1. At this stage, I check the jambs, perhaps some irregularities in the anatomy. It's easy to do: Image - Image rotation - Flip horizontally

That's what I did:

In the picture I do not like the shoulder, nose and arm, now we will correct this.

2.2. Go to the filter - Plastic (Shift + Ctrl + X)

This will open the plastic window:

For the fixes we need the Warp Tool (W):

Choose different brush sizes and shift the parts you don't like, the main thing is not to overdo it, otherwise the quality may be lost, and remember, there you can only undo ONE last action:

What I did you can see here:

2.3. Reflect the picture back: Image - Image rotation - Flip horizontally.

2.4. Select the Brush Tool (B) and set the color to white.

We adjust the desired size and rigidity, it all depends on what size the drawing is and how it is more convenient for you to work.

Now, as you probably already guessed, I will erase the dirt from the picture, for large areas I use a large brush, for small areas a correspondingly small one.
You can also use the Lighten tool in those places where there is a lot of detail, but the method is inconvenient because it can lighten the outline if it is not very black.

For convenience, you can also adjust the transparency of the brush, this is configured in the top panel, referred to as "Opaque."

In the end, I got it like this:

You can use Levels (Ctrl + L) and Dodge again to keep everything clean.

2.5. Now you need to separate the outline from the background, for this go to Selection - All (Crtl + A)

A flickering outline should appear around the picture, if it appears, then right-click on the picture and select "Cut to a new layer"

As a result, now you should have two layers and Layer 1 active, there is a path on it:

2.6. Where the Layers tab is, there are Channels next to it, click on them and the following tab appears:

Click on the circle at the bottom of the area, which is highlighted in the image and return to the Layers tab, make sure that the outline layer is selected and press Delete or Del, or Ctrl + X, in extreme cases.
Choose Selection - Deselect (Ctrl + D), if it hasn't disappeared by itself.

The outline is very pale, but that's not all.

2.7. In the layers tab, click on the square

Now you can take a huge black brush and paint the entire canvas, the main thing is not to be afraid.
The drawing has become the same again, but with one condition - the outline on a separate layer.

2.8. Now you can create new layers under the path and paint as with a regular path. You can also use different blending effects, for example Multiply.

It turns out something like this:

2.9. If the contour is very dirty and uneven and you are unsatisfied with the result, and there is no tablet, to make the contour immediately in Photoshop, then paint the contour you made in bright blue (# 00b6ff) or green.

Print this drawing and trace it carefully, then scan it again (it may not work with a photo). As a result, there will be something like this (I made a contour on a computer, since there is no paint in the printer at the moment, but I wanted to show by an example how the method works)

2.10. We go back to the Channels and turn off everything except the blue one, to turn it off, you need to remove the eye next to the layer. If you selected a green outline, then only the green layer is left.

The blue outline will disappear.

2.11. Now, to save the result, see that ONLY the Blue layer is selected, go to Select - All (Ctrl + A), then Edit - Copy (Ctrl + C). Turn on all the layers again (RGB, Red, Green, Blue), while a blue outline will appear, and choose Edit - Paste (Ctrl + V)
Go back to the layers tab and you will have like this:

On Layer 1 there is a flat path, against the background a path with blue lines, so you can delete it, switch to it and press Ctrl + A then Ctrl + X.
To separate the outline from the white background, you need to repeat step 8: switch to the Channels tab and click on the circle at the bottom of the area, and return to the layers tab, on the outline layer and press Delete or Del, in extreme cases Ctrl + X.
Select Selection - Deselect (Ctrl + D), if it has not disappeared by itself.
Now the outline is perfect, you can paint.

3. If you have a tablet, you can do the contour manually and it is not necessary to carry out any manipulations with colors and cutting, the only thing that would be useful is plastic, but this is at your discretion.
3.1. Open the photographed / scanned image in Photoshop and go to Image - Image Size.

In the window that opens, see the dimensions of the image so that on the larger side there is at least 3000px, if the number is less, then increase it, the quality of the outline depends on it.

3.2. Now you need to separate the images into a new layer, press Ctrl + A and right-click on the image and select Cut to New Layer.

3.3. Make sure Layer 1 with the picture is active and set the transparency to about 50%.

The image has become barely noticeable, if it is difficult for you to see, then the transparency can be changed at any time.

3.4. I make the contour with a regular brush with the following parameters.

3.5. Create a new layer above the picture and paint.

That's all I would like to tell you in this tutorial. Good luck and success in drawing and mastering Photoshop!

The lesson is in DOC format for offline viewing or for printing, you can download it

In this article, we will look at how you can create an outline for text or an object in an image in Photoshop. This is not at all difficult to do and it will take a little time. Now you will be convinced of this.

How to outline text in Photoshop

We will start by saying that let's make an outline for the text in Photoshop... You can have an image on which the text is written, or you can create the text yourself, choosing the appropriate size and font.

I wrote the following text using the Horizontal Type Tool and chose the settings for it, which are underlined in the image below.

Now we need to select our text. You can read about different selection methods by clicking on the link. Since the text is solid and with enough contrast in relation to the background, I will use the Magic Wand Tool.

In the tool settings, select the value "Tolerance" - selects an area with pixels of similar color, and uncheck the box opposite "Contiguous" (Adjacent pixels). By unchecking the checkbox, you can select all pixels of a similar color in the entire image at once, even if areas with a similar color are located in different places.

Click on the text with the Magic Wand. As a result, it will be highlighted. If we left a checkmark in front of "Contiguous" (Adjacent pixels), then only one letter on which we clicked would be selected, and we would have to click on each letter to select it.

Now let's circle the text. Move the cursor over the selected area and right-click on it. Select "Make Work Path" from the context menu.

In the next window, set the Tolerance value and click OK.

The text will be outlined with a thin line. To see it, hide the layer on which the text is written in the layers panel - remove the eye in front of it.

Make back the text layer visible. Now we need to create a new layer. To do this, on the layers panel, click on the "Create a new layer" button.

Leave the created layer "Layer 1" selected.

You can make a contour in Photoshop using different tools: "Brush Tool" (Brush), "Eraser Tool" (Eraser), "Smudge Tool" (Finger) and others. But before doing it, you need to configure the necessary parameters for the tool.

We will create a path using the "Brush Tool" (Brush). Therefore, select it on the toolbar, and set the desired parameters. I chose a hard size 7 brush in light green.

After that, on the toolbar select the "Path Selection Tool" (Selection of the path).

Click with the mouse inside the selected path and select from the menu "Stroke Path" (Execute a stroke of the path).

In the next window, from the drop-down list, select the tool with which we will make the contour. Choose the instrument that you tuned in the previous step. I have it "Brush Tool" (Brush). Click OK.

The outline of the text will be outlined. In the example, a light green brush.

Press Backspace to remove the thin gray line that was originally circled for the text. In the figure, a dark stripe is visible through the light outline - this will remove it.

That's all - we made an outline for the text in Photoshop.

You can save the image on a transparent background, and then add it to any other, without a white background. Read the article by following the link.

For this example, it is done like this: unlock the "Background" layer, delete the "Background" and "site" layers, save the image in * .png or * .gif format.

How to outline an image

Now consider, how to make an outline for an object in an image... Let's create an outline for this rose.

You can create an outline of anything: a person, a building, an animal.

Open the image or photo in Photoshop. Now we need to select the object. I will be using the Quick Selection Tool.

Select it and click on the rose. If an unnecessary part of the image is mistakenly selected, hold down "Alt" and click on it with the mouse to subtract this area from the selection.

When the desired object is selected, right-click on it and select "Make Work Path" from the menu. Our rose will be outlined with a thin gray line.

On the layers palette, create a new layer and leave it selected.

Now go to setting up the tool with which you will make the path. I will have a "Brush Tool" (Brush) of the seventh size black.

Select the "Path Selection Tool" from the toolbar. Click with the mouse inside the selected path and select from the menu "Stroke Path" (Perform a stroke of the path).

In the next window, select the tool that you configured.

If you turn off the visibility of the main layer, you get the following. You can delete a thin gray line of the contour with the "Backspace" key.

Now with a thin brush let's paint the paths inside the image. Turn on the visibility of the rose layer.

We will draw on the layer where the outline is selected, so "Layer 1" should be active.

I chose black for the brush, size 4 and traced all the lines inside the rose.

Here is the image as a result. You can fill the outline with any color you want. Similarly, you can create interesting patterns using strokes.

Sometimes you want to outline a selection (i.e. outline the outline). This technique comes in really handy when used in conjunction with selection tools. For example, you can combine it with the Rectangular Marquee Tool to add a thin black outline to a photo, or with an oval selection.

When it comes to adding chic to an image, few effects can beat a thin black outline.

Whether you are embedding an image in text or posting it on a blog, adding an outline sharpens the edges a little, giving the drawing a finished look.

Here's how to add an outline around the edge of an image:

Step 1

Open the image and select it. If the image is the same size as the document, choose the menu command Selection \u003d\u003e All... If it is smaller than the document and is on its own layer, Ctrl-click the layer thumbnail instead.

Step 2

Select a menu command Editing \u003d\u003e Stroke... In the dialog box, enter a value in pixels in the Width box (I set it to 10 pixels), and then click on the color indicator. Choose a color from the palette that appears and click OK. When you're back, set the radio button in the Arrangement group to Inside, so that the outline appears only inside the borders of the image.

Step 3

Click OK to view the new outline.

To circle someone in a photo, you will need to follow basically the same steps:

Step 1

Open the photo and select a tool such as. Drag your mouse to draw an oval. Remember that you can hold the Shift key while dragging to create a perfect circle or the Alt key and draw an oval from the inside. Move the selection, if necessary, by clicking and holding the mouse button inside it and dragging the mouse.

Step 2

Select a menu command Stroke, enter the width and match the color. It needs to be at least 2 pixels wide, so the circle will be thick enough to be seen. In Group Location set the switch to position Centerthen Photoshop will place the stroke in the center over the "marching ants". For example, if you entered a width of 2 pixels, the program will position one pixel on the outside of the selection and one on the inside (in other words, it will "step over" the selection).

It seems to me that each of us, at least once in his life, traced the brush of his hand with a pencil, putting it on a sheet of paper. Or maybe it happened on the beach. The hand lay on the sand and we circled it with a stick or a long pebble. In both cases, we got a contour. Let's do something similar, but now in Photoshop.

A photo of the hand will help us:

For working in Photoshop, this image of a palm is ideal and simple material. And that's why. A solid white background and an object - a hand can also be considered relatively solid, and on a white background the hand looks quite contrasting.

In cases where the general background and the object of interest to us, the outline of which we are going to create, contrast to a large extent, then we can use the Quick Selection tool. To make the tool work more accurately, we need to help him a little. Our help might be to duplicate the layer. And we will do this in order to enhance the contrast. That is, we will make the hand more saturated, well, or darker.

To this end, hover the mouse cursor over the layer in the layers palette (blue selection), and right-click. By these actions, we will open the options window, in which we will select the item "Duplicate layer":

After we selected the "Duplicate Layer" option, by clicking the left mouse button, a new window appeared before our eyes:

We can just click the "Ok" button, or we can, after the appearance of this window, immediately write something on the keyboard, that is, assign a name to the layer, or a name, and then click the "Ok" button. We do it at our discretion.

I just clicked the "Ok" button:

Done! The duplicate layer appeared in the layers palette (window).

Now we need to change the blending mode of the duplicate layer, and we need to do this to darken the hand, or to enhance the contrast with the white general background of the photo.

Let's turn to the list of blending modes in the top menu of the layer window, expanding the list of modes by a normal mouse click on the arrow button:

A list of layer blend modes appeared before our eyes:

Let's increase the contrast, so let's increase it. Let's select the "Linear Dimmer" mode from the list:

And this is what we got as a result:

Well, everything is ready to work with the Quick Selection tool. Hover the mouse cursor over the "Quick Selection" tool we need at the moment in the tool window:

And by clicking the left mouse button, select it. The mouse cursor turns into a circle with a crosshair inside.

Now let's pay attention to the technical settings of the instrument. Let's take a look at the control unit with these very technical settings:

The tool should work in the "Add to selection" mode. To make it so, click on the tool icon with a plus sign. If the icon is highlighted in blue, then you do not need to click on it, - the mode is already activated:

If you set the value to 3 or 5, the selection will be sharper. If we choose a value much larger than what we see now, and we see a value of 18, then starting to select the palm, we will capture a white background, since with a large diameter of the instrument its sensitivity will decrease.

Perhaps the "golden mean" can be considered the value at which the circle-cursor of the tool will be slightly smaller than any finger of the hand. For me, the diameter of the tool is convenient within 15-22. I opted for the value 18. Perhaps it is better to focus on your feelings and on the selection process itself. Depending on how convenient and high-quality (there is no capture of a white background) we carry out the selection, and we need to move the slider for adjusting the tool diameter, choosing the optimal value.

For the tool to work, as they say, "to the fullest", the stiffness must be set to 100%. Well, now we are ready to select the hand. I suggest starting the selection from the wrist:

We also set the intervals of the dotted line-selection not very large. In my case, 7%. If we set the selection intervals much larger, then the selection will be less even, I would even say, rough or rough. But even this may be necessary in some cases. We do everything, of course, at our discretion.

Well, let's start. Move the tool cursor to the wrist. By pressing and holding the left mouse button, we begin to move the tool up towards the fingertips:

We start the tool on the thumb, then on the palm and the other finger ..., and then the tool worked independently, and the brush became completely covered by the selection.

If such an independent selection did not happen, then we smoothly move the tool cursor over all fingers until the hand is completely selected.

In the event that we felt inconvenience in holding the left mouse button or some physical discomfort began to be experienced by our hand, then the selection process can be suspended. Let's stop holding the mouse at all. Twirl the brush, stretch the fingers, and then continue the selection process again from where we left off.

What to do if a white background still falls into the selection area? You can cancel the selection altogether by pressing the Ctrl + D keyboard shortcut and start selecting the palm again. Or you can turn to the block of technical settings of the instrument and switch the mode of its operation by clicking the mouse, but now by the instrument icon with a minus:

It is not at all necessary to change other tool settings (diameter of the circle cursor, its hardness, intervals of the dotted selection itself).

This mode switch gives us the ability to remove the "capture" by highlighting a white background:

Well, let's get rid of the unnecessary selection of a part of the white background. Move the cursor-circle of the tool to the selection and, by pressing the left mouse button and then holding it, begin to move the excess selection towards the edge of the palm. We try to move the selection smoothly so as not to shift the selection deep into the palm of the hand:

When one of the areas of excess selection touches the palm contour, we move on to the next selection area and shift it in the same way.

In the event that we still climbed the selection into the palm, then we need to switch the tool's operation mode again by clicking its plus icon and smoothly moving the selection to the edge (contour) of the palm. In order for the selection to be of high quality and clearly flow around the contour of the hand, and it was more convenient for us to work ourselves, it will be better to increase the visibility when starting the selection:

And when we did it, and we did it, and I have no doubt about it, we move on to the part of the process that is directly related to the creation of the palm contour. Let go of the left mouse button and exhale of relief.

The brush is selected - the selection "ants" are actively running along its contour, and we change the tool and create a new layer in the layers window.

Let's start by creating a new layer. Click in the bottom menu of the layers window, the icon for creating a new layer. Done:

In a few seconds this new layer will turn into a palm outline layer, or rather a future outline. We only have a selection so far, and the outline is in front.

Now let's change the tools or selection modes. With a normal mouse click, select the regular (not quick) selection tool. And which instrument from the list we choose, in our case, does not matter:

Let's take the topmost one. It is also the first from top to bottom, called "Rectangular area":

So, a new, still empty layer has been created, the tool has been changed and now, we move the tool cursor to the palm area and find ourselves inside the selection. The tool cursor looks like two crosses. One is big and the other is small. We make a right-click. An options window has appeared, in which we are currently interested in the "Stroke" option:

Let's choose it. And then the following settings window appeared:

In this window, we can, at will, adjust the thickness (width) of the contour line, its color, and also select the location of the stroke, and then click the "OK" button. I will not change the settings and will just press the "OK" button. And this is what happened:

In order for us to fully admire our creation, we need to hide or delete unnecessary visible elements that interfere with the view. Let's not rush to delete elements, but just turn off the visibility of some of them. Let's start with layers. In the layers window, click on the "Eye" icon next to the background layer and the copy background layer:

Well, that's another matter:

To be sure that the contour we created is free of flaws and defects, we increase the visibility scale (Photoshop CS5 version):

Unfortunately, we must admit that the contour turned out to be "so-so". The contour line has many irregularities, which were noticeable at the very beginning of its creation and at 100% visibility scale.

Using the technique of creating a contour from a selection, we should not get carried away with darkening (lightening) the selected area of \u200b\u200bthe future contour. Overemphasizing contrast enhances the existing roughness of the images we are working with, even if they are of good quality.

In addition, the image itself may not be the original. So, the image of the palm with which we just worked was already subjected to not very high-quality processing in some kind of image editor, which was reflected in the contour we created from the selection. It is the placement of images on a white background that allows you to hide the roughness of the contour while reducing the contrast of the object (lightening).

But for all those irregularities of the resulting contour, it is still not worth underestimating the convenience and significance of the technique for creating a contour from a selection.

In the near future we will continue to talk about creating contours using other techniques, well, or approaches.

In this video I will show you how to outline objects in Adobe Photoshop. Stroke is the underlining of the outlines of objects using color, while the object can be either an image or text. Most often, strokes are used to select objects that blend in with the background, especially for small-scale images, such as icons for YouTube videos. For the text, by the way, you can visit our website.

I will show a small example, let's say there is some kind of background, in this case it is red and against this background there is some object of a similar color, in this case it is text. Now, although the object is visible, it still merges a little with the background, and if you zoom in, it will need to merge with the background for analysis. And if you zoom out, then you will need to peer to parse the inscription. But if you circle this text in some contrasting color, for example, white, and readability increases dramatically, even at a small scale. this is the stroke. And now I will show you how to do it.

To show the process from scratch, I'll close this document and create a new one. By the way, I am using the English version of Photoshop. At the moment, this is Photoshop CC2015.5, but at some key points, I will say how the option is called in the Russian version.

So, to begin with, to make it clearer to fill the background with some kind of gray color. Then I'll add an object to this background, i.e. insert the text. And I will choose for this text some non-contrasting text, for example, pale yellow. ABOUT! Gorgeous! In the miniature it is not at all clear what is written there, what is needed.

Now is the time to do the stroke. The first thing to do is go to the "Layers" window, in the Russian version it is called "Layers". If this window is not there, you can enable it through the Programs / Window menu. In the "Layers" window, right-click on the layer with the object, in this case it is the top layer, and select the blending options item, in the Russian version this item is called "Blending Options". Such a window appears, in it find the item "Stroke", in the Russian version it is called "Stroke", and click on this item with the left mouse button. After that, the stroke turns on, you can see it by the check mark in front of the name, and the stroke settings open. On the object, as you can see, the result is already displayed, which corresponds to the inserted parameters. These parameters can be changed, and let's look at them in order.

The first slider is the size in pixels. With this parameter, you can change the thickness of the stroke. You can set the value using the slider, or you can enter it manually, in this field.

Below is the "Position" menu, i.e. position. Here, there are three options to choose from: outside, i.e. the stroke starts from the edge of the object and goes to the outside; inside (inside), i.e. the stroke starts from the edge of the object and goes inward, as if filling the object; center, in this case the stroke goes from the edge, simultaneously in both directions, in half.

The next menu is blend mode. I will not dwell on it, because blending modes are a separate big topic, and when you stroke, blending modes are not used. Below the blending modes is the "opacity" parameter. opacity. Here, using the slider, you can adjust the opacity of the stroke, i.e. whether the background will shine through it or not. Below is the "overprint" item. We skip it, because we don't need it. This option is needed to eliminate unwanted artifacts when printing.

Even below is the "Stroke Type" menu, where you can choose one of three options. The first option is Color, i.e. Colour. It is by default, and by selecting it, the object will be outlined with some one color, which can be selected if you left-click here, on this rectangle with the color. A window for choosing a color appears, in it you select the desired color, most often they use white or black, but there are exceptions, and when the color is selected, click "OK".

The second option in the stroke type menu is a gradient. By selecting this item, the stroke is not one color, but multi-colored with smooth transition colors. Here you can select the type of gradient, set colors, transition angle, scale and direction. In general, if you need a gradient stroke, just rotate the settings and you yourself will understand which one is responsible for what.

Well, the last, third variant of the stroke type is a pattern. Here you can select one of the proposed pattern options and change the scale of this pattern.

And the bottom two buttons are to make this setting the default setting, and reset the settings to default.

In general, after you decide on the type of stroke and its color, click on the "OK" button. Done!

Image strokes work the same way. For example, there is some kind of image. In this case, the Youtube logo on a transparent background. Select this image in any way. Copy it with the "Ctrl + C" keyboard shortcut. Paste where you want with the "Ctrl + V" key combination, and then everything is exactly the same as with the text. Right click on the layer / Blending options / Stroke and adjust.