3d scanner with two cameras.

Answers on questions

If you want to make a DIY 3D scanner, the first step is to find a webcam. If you have one, the cost of the entire project will cost $ 40-50. Desktop 3D scanning has made big leaps in recent years, but it still has big limitations. The hardware of the technique is built on the basis of a certain volume and scan resolution. You can only get good results if your subject matches the shooting requirements and resolution.

How 3D shooting works

Photogrammetry uses a set of conventional 2D photographs taken from all sides around an object. If a point on an object can be seen in at least three images, its location can be triangulated and measured in three dimensions. By locating and calculating the location of thousands or even millions of points, the software can create extremely accurate reproduction.

Unlike a hardware scanner, this process is not limited in size or resolution. If you can photograph an object, you can scan it:

The limiting factor in photogrammetry is the quality of the photographs and therefore the skill of the photographer.
Photos must be clearly visible and clearly in focus.
They should also be positioned around the object so that each part is covered.

Without a 3D scanner, you can only capture large objects in 3D. Small items cannot be scanned. To understand this in more detail, let's look at the concept of photogrammetry.

What is photogrammetry and how does it affect the display of objects?

Photogrammetry is the science of taking measurements from photographs, especially for reconstructing the exact position of surface points. It can also be used to reconstruct the trajectories of designated control points on any moving object, its components and in the immediate vicinity of the environment.

In short, it gives you the ability to create a 3D mesh from multiple photos by comparing the similarities between images and triangulating them in 3D space.

Photogrammetry has been around for a while, but it wasn't until Autodesk jumped into their beta program Memento that things started to work stably. Memento was renamed ReMake when it left the beta phase. Sounds like magic, right? Well, this is not magic, this is reality. Now anyone can do 3D scanning without spending hundreds on a scanner. Even affordable open source 3D scanners require quite a bit of knowledge to get them to work properly. With photogrammetry, anyone can get what they want.

Turntable - the second step in creating a scanner

All you need to create a DIY 3D scanner is your smartphone, the included headphones and a turntable. Here's how it works: you turn the knob, and for each full turn of the turntable, the phone's camera is triggered by the volume of the headphones 50 times.

Just! Transfer your photos to your computer and then use Autodesk ReMake to work wonders. It's amazing, but not only does it mesh well, it also provides tools for adjusting the mesh, repairing holes, aligning, preparing for 3D printing, or serving as a system form as a 3D resource for games or rendering!

Well, given that Apple has removed the headphone jack for the iPhone 7 and up, an updated version of the scanner build will be used. It is based on the principle of operation by a trigger for a Bluetooth camera. This will replace the need for a headphone jack.

High quality photogrammetric scanning requires high quality photographs of an object from all angles.
The easiest approach for scanning small things is to rotate the subject while photographing.
For this, the scanner uses a stepper motor driven by an Arduino board.
The stepper turns the subject by a fixed amount, and then the infrared LED goes out with a damn clever series of flashes that mimic the camera's wireless remote control.

With a set of buttons allows the user to control the Arduino. Using the buttons, the user can select the number of shots to be taken per revolution. A high quality DIY 3D scanner can work in automatic mode, where it takes a picture, advances the stepper motor and repeats it until it completes a full revolution.

There is also a manual mode, in which each press of the button takes a picture, moves the jog dial and waits. This is useful for scanning parts. The 3D scanner focuses on the frame that frames the image.

Additional software

When photogrammetry software detects a feature in a photo, it tries to find that feature in other images and records the location on all the images that appear.

If the object is part of a rotating object, we get good data.
If the detected feature is in the background and does not move while the rest of the object is being scanned, it could disrupt the space-time continuum, at least as far as your software is concerned.

There are two solutions:

One of them is to move the camera around the subject to keep the background in sync with the movement. This is fine for large objects, but much more difficult to automate.
An easier solution is to leave the background plain. This is easier for small objects. Add the right lighting to that, and you're on your way to featureless backgrounds.

Another tip is to overexpose your images with a stop or two. This allows you to capture more detail in the object's shadow while separating the background so that any remaining background objects fade into sparkling white.

"Arduino". It has pins that are not covered by the LCD screen, making it easier to connect.
SainSmart 1602 LCD Shield, which has a display and several buttons to control the scanner.
Stepper motor driver (Easy Driver).

A NEMA 17 stepper motor will rotate the scanned object. With a large stepper motor (with the appropriate driver and power supply), this high quality DIY 3D scanner could scale up. 950 nm IR LED triggers the camera. Some popular models of handheld 3D scanners are based on this principle. You can repeat the building process with your own hands. We offer several options to choose from.

Spinscan by Tony Buser: the foundation of all scanners

In 2011, the genius of 3D printing, Tony Buser, released Spinscan. It is an open source DIY 3D scanner based on a laser and a digital camera. MakerBot later used ideas from Spinscan to create a closed source Digitizer scanner.

FabScan

FabScan started out as a graduate project and has since been adopted by a small community that continues to work to improve its capabilities. FabScan works like many other laser scanners, but is assisted by a built-in housing that helps equalize light levels while preventing scan distortion.

VirtuCube

An alternative method for laser scanners is the structured light scanner. By using a pico projector instead of a laser, VirtuCube can be easily created with a few printed parts and basic electronics. This whole system can be placed in a cardboard box to prevent other light sources from causing printing errors.

There are already two exciting new open source laser scanners released: The BQ Cyclop and Murobo Atlas.

BQ - laser scanning system

The Spanish consumer electronics company BQ announced the Cyclop 3D scanner at CES. Cyclop uses two laser line levels, a standard USB webcam and a custom Arduino controller from BQ. BQ has written their own scanning app called Horus. While reports say Cyclop is not available yet, BQ says it will be later this year.

"Atlas" - a developed project that requires improvements

Murobo's 3D Printed Scanner is currently seeking funds on Kickstarter. Like Spinscan, Digitizer and Cyclop, Atlas uses laser line modules and a webcam to scan an object on a rotating platform. Atlas replaces the Arduino Raspberry Pi to integrate control and capture into a device. Like Cyclop, the creator of Atlas promises that it will be an open source project. The $ 129 kits sold out, but some remained at $ 149 and $ 209.

In 2019, the company aims to release a 3D scanner built from a smartphone that will not only display background visibility, but also design focus when capturing an image. In America, DIY novelties are amazing. If you don't know how to make a 3D scanner, please use the unfinished Atlas version. The functionality is clear enough, and developers only need to flash the device and ensure the operation of those functions that they want to see as a result.

CowTech Ciclop: new model of multifunctional device

The price goes up to $ 160 (depending on whether you are printing 3D parts or not). The company is based in the USA. The resolution of the finished images reaches 0.5 mm. Maximum scanning volume: 200 × 200 × 205 mm. BQ formed the basis of a DIY 3D scanner kit for a 3D printer. With your own hands, you can modify the version of the model to create images in four-dimensional space.

CowTech Engineering has leveraged funds led by BQ to make the updated model unique. Opportunities appeared:

environmental review,
capture the background,
display lenses in an inverted style.

True to the open source movement, Cowtech has launched a Kickstarter campaign to raise money to launch a production version of the original, Ciclop CowTech. The team set a lofty goal of raising $ 10,000, but was greeted with surprise and delight when the community was able to raise $ 183,000. The CowTech Ciclop DIY 3D scanner kit was born.

So what's the difference between the CowTech version and the BQ DIY?

CowTech Ciclop still uses Horus 3D software as it is a fantastic store for 3D scanning objects. The differences, however, lie in a slightly different design, which the team spent several days developing so that the parts could be 3D printed on any FDM 3D printer.

The same blanks can be used to design devices with your own hands. 3D scanners and printers from this company have only a small build volume, so CowTech has developed parts that can be printed on any printer with an build volume of 115 × 110 × 65mm, which is found in almost all 3D printers.

Ciclop by CowTech:

There are adjustable laser holders here.
CowTech DIY uses laser cut acrylic.

Models use threaded rods.
There is no laser cutting of acrylic.

It's okay, and the scanners still look pretty similar, but CowTech only intended to improve on the existing design, not reform it. CowTech sells a ready-to-scan Ciclop for $ 159 on their website. All in all this is a great cheap DIY 3D scanner, very effective for laser triangulation 3D scanning.

Rotary machines and tables for creating scanners

The mobile phone is equipped with DIY 3D scanner technology: photogrammetry - there is a technological feature.
Price: Free to print yourself (although materials will cost around $ 30).
This DIY 3D scanner will be quite simple to create. Dave Clarke, a British manufacturer, made sure that the models could be disassembled even before the start of sales. Spare parts will be used to create other scanners.

This is because it is based on photogrammetry, not laser triangulation, and is compatible with your smartphone! You can download the 3D print file to sync the devices.

With your own hands, you can make a 3D scanner from improvised means. You just need to trust the DIY 3D creators. A simple device instantly turns your iPhone or Android into a 3D scanner by connecting it to this player. Then, using headphones and a phone camera, he takes more than 50 photos of the object, which will be scanned when the turntable rotates.

Once you have taken these images, you can load them into a program such as Autodesk ReCap to turn your photos into a full 3D file.

Overall this is a fantastic creative project and a great DIY 3D scanner for those on a budget.

Microsoft Kinect 3D Scanner

Its cost is even lower at just $ 99 (however no longer available, although the Kinect V2 is still available with Xbox One). The slogan of the company: "Do-it-yourself 3D scanner from" Kinect "and surprise your friends.

While Microsoft has responded to demand by creating its own 3D Scan app for the Kinect scanner, there are a number of third-party options that may be preferred. These include:

Skanect, made by Occupital, which also sells frame sensor.
ReconstructMe. It provides a set of tools that lets you do 3D scans for under $ 100.

The results are not fantastic, but for the price they are quite acceptable. It has been proven to be inferior to traditional protogrammetry options in terms of quality, especially in small details such as small models such as shark teeth. Still, for novice 3D scanners, this is a fantastic entry-level product, especially since you may already have one for the Xbox 360.

Before creating a scanner

There are many cameras that you can use. Of course, in order to know how to make a 3D scanner from a phone with your own hands, you need to calculate what you need for this. If you plan to use the Pi Scan to control cameras, then you should use the Canon PowerShot ELPH 160. But if you are using some other setting, here are some general guidelines for choosing cameras:

How many megapixels do you need? Measure the items you are about to scan. Aim for the largest average size (do not select the largest outliers). For example, most textbooks are 22.86 x 27.94 cm. Now multiply that size by the PPI (pixels per centimeter) you intend to capture. 300 is a safe minimum, although you can't go wrong if you grab more. So, in our example - 9 × 300 \u003d 2700. 11 × 300 \u003d 3300. We need an image of at least 2700 × 3300 \u003d 8,910,000 pixels, or about 9 megapixels.
What kind of control do you need? If you're just scanning one book or scanning an item just for its informational content (as opposed to trying to capture the actual appearance), you don't need very good pictures. If the lighting or camera settings change from shot to shot, you will still get great results.
Shutter speed - white balance ISO aperture.
Flash on / off. Any custom image processing (sharpening, color enhancement, etc.).
Focus (ideally the ability to lock focus).
Impact compensation.
Zooming in - most DSLRs allow all of this kind of control; for compact cameras, only Canon Powershot cameras that support CHDK. They allow you to control all these parameters.

Much depends on the budget. Scanners are sold for the same price as cameras. If you want to do it yourself, then the budget is limited. Pay attention to the available segment of the optics and spare parts market.

The first difficulty faced in creating a 3D laser scanner is finding a rotating platform. Moreover, it only needs to be controlled using MatLab. Instead of spending a lot of money or time, you can buy 28BYJ-48-5V stepper motor with ULN2003 drive test module board.
Next, glue the platform to the stepper motor shaft and place it in the groove inside the holder. The platform should be flush with the "marble", but keep in mind that the cheaper it is, the more incompatible diameters that can make things uneven.
If you have a method to get accurate rotation that can be controlled in Mat Lab, adjust the camera at any distance and height, and a laser line to the left or right of the camera and from the turntable. The angle of the laser should be optimal to cover most of the turntable, but nothing needs to be precise, we will handle the difference in model scale in code.
The most important part for proper operation is camera calibration. Using the MatLab Computer Vision Toolkit, you can get the exact focal length and optical center of the camera with an accuracy of 0.14 pixels.

Note that changing the camera resolution will change the calibration process values. The main values \u200b\u200bwe are looking for are the focal length, measured in pixel units, and the pixel coordinates of the optical center of the image plane.

Most cheap compact cameras do not have a software interface. They can only be operated by manual or mechanical starting. But a team of volunteers have developed software that allows Canon compact cameras to be remotely controlled and configured. This software is called CHDK.

The CHDK is downloaded to an SD card, which is then inserted into the camera.
When the camera starts up, CHDK starts up automatically.
Since the CHDK never makes permanent changes to the camera, you can always simply remove the dedicated CHDK SD card for normal camera operation.

The CHDK is an essential prerequisite for the software controllers listed below. The controllers run on a PC or Raspberry Pi and communicate with the CHDK software running on cameras via USB. When using other types of cheap cameras, the only control option is any mechanical or manual launch through the installer programs, as shown above.

Attention! Observe safety precautions when working with laser radiation. We remind you that attempts to repeat the actions of the author may lead to the loss of the warranty for the equipment and even to its failure. The material is provided for informational purposes only. If you are going to reproduce the steps described below, we strongly advise you to carefully read the article to the end at least once. 3DNews editors are not responsible for any possible consequences.

A professional 3D scanner is a complicated thing and not everyone needs it, and therefore quite expensive. But a simple analogue for digitizing a small number of objects can be done independently and with minimal expenditure of money and time. We will need: a laser module, a webcam, paper, a printer, cardboard or a sheet of plywood, as well as special software. Let's sort everything out in order. We need a laser module with a line-shaped beam (not a point, as in the once popular Chinese pointers). Red modules are the easiest to get, but green, white or blue modules will do. They cost within a thousand rubles when purchased in an offline store. And if you order at some Chinese online flea market, you can save a little, but you have to wait for (slow) mail to deliver it.

We purchased a laser module with a wavelength of 650 nm (red) and a power of 5 mW for the experiment. More powerful lasers are significantly more expensive and more dangerous. Better, of course, to buy a self-powered module, since it is much more convenient. Otherwise, it is imperative to find out the power parameters and attend to the creation of a small "kit" with batteries or accumulators and a switch. Just in case, recall that the red wire is +, and the black one is. Observe the polarity of the connection and the power supply parameters, otherwise the laser may be damaged. Be sure to read the following warning!

Attention!!! Laser radiation is very dangerous! Never direct the laser beam into the eyes of people (including yourself) and animals - this can cause irreparable damage to vision (for example, burn the retina of the eye)! It is forbidden to look into the laser beam through any optical devices! Do not point the laser beam at any vehicles (including airplanes)! Never give the laser to children or inadequate people, and also make sure that they cannot access the laser! Do not use laser modules with a power of more than 5 mW, as in this case even the reflected beam can pose a hazard! In any case, it is strongly recommended to purchase special protective goggles for work, designed for the wavelength that the laser module emits! Do not hold the laser module at head level! Always follow safety precautions! If you do not understand the meaning of the above, do not use a laser! 3DNews editorial staff and the author do not bear any responsibility for any possible consequences, including injuries caused by laser radiation!

Read the previous paragraph again and remember the above. It's a good idea to check out the popular Laser Safety FAQ. By the way, a laser level can be an excellent replacement for the module. It also costs around 1,000 rubles. At the same time, it is obviously less dangerous due to the low radiation power, and you do not have to bother with the organization of the power supply and the switch: insert the battery and work.

Next on the list is the webcam. It needs to support WDM or DirectShow (all modern models seem to have suitable drivers) and at least 30 FPS at 640x480. You can take a worse camera, but the result will be appropriate. The higher the supported resolution and frame rate, the better, but the load on the PC in this case will be more noticeable. The developers of the software we are using, which we will now turn to, recommend giving preference to the Logitech Pro 9000. We used the Logitech HDPro Webcam 910. The ideal option is to use a good black and white camera with a CCD matrix.

Finally, about the most important thing - about a program that will convert a flat image from a webcam into a three-dimensional model. This is a well-known utility DAVID-Laserscanner, which has already made it into the news of our resource. Recently a major release was released, the third in a row. To work correctly, the PC must have Microsoft .NET Framework version 2.0 or later installed. It should be noted right away that the full version of the program costs 329 euros. The demo is almost complete, but does not allow saving the finished 3D model. It seems that our readers do not need to explain where to buy correct version. If you are a crystal clear soul and you have 400 euros free, then buy a ready-made branded set of a webcam with a stand, software, calibration panels with mounts and a red laser with power. If not, then you need to start by making a calibration angle.

In principle, the process of setting up and working with the utility is well described in the project wiki. So we will only briefly describe the main stages of work. Download and install DAVID-Laserscanner. In the program folder in the Printout directory you will find files with calibration surface templates for A3 and A4 formats. It is necessary to choose the appropriate format based on the size of the scanned object. You can roughly estimate, relying on the fact that the height of the scanned object should be 1.5-2 times less than the height of the calibration angle. Print the templates, cut or fold them along the fold lines, and clip them to two flat surfaces - plywood or cardboard, on the walls in the corner of the room, inside a box, and so on. In general, turn on your imagination.

The main condition is that the angle between the two planes should be 90 degrees and not change. You also need to ensure that the printed pages remain smooth and even, and there is nothing glossy on the surface. The developers, in particular, recommend fixing the printed sheets with adhesive. It is also important not to confuse the orientation of the sheets. On the printout, measure and remember the length (in mm) of the line labeled Scale. We will be scanning a small owl figurine as an example. In this case, an A4 size template came up, which was attached to a piece of cardboard folder with a stapler.

When the corner is ready, you need to position the webcam so that it looks exactly at the fold line. There is one more nuance - there should be as large an angle as possible between the line of sight of the camera and the scanning laser beam. Therefore, you can make the camera look up slightly. You may need to make small stands for the scanned object and the camera itself. Most importantly, you need to ensure that the camera position and calibration angle can be rigidly fixed relative to each other after setup and calibration. If you do not need texturing of the object, then the webcam should be immediately switched to black and white mode.

Once the camera and angle are set, you can proceed with the calibration. Run DAVID-Laserscanner, select your webcam as a video source, and set its mode of operation (resolution and frame rate). Now go to the Camera Calibration section. Enter the previously measured Scale width and click Calibrate. If the program immediately showed that the calibration was successful, then this is very cool. Otherwise, you have to play with the camera settings. Disable various image enhancements, remove automatic brightness and contrast adjustment, and auto focus tracking. If there is manual focus, then sharpen the image of the round marks. You also have to choose the distance from the corner to the lens and the tilt of the camera. The calibration process can take a long time, but once it is complete, immediately secure the camera and calibration angle carefully and do not touch them again.

The calibration process will have to be repeated before each new scan. Now you can place the scanned object in a corner (you can use a stand) and go to the 3D Laser Scanning section. The object must be in the center of the camera image, and parts of the calibration angle must be visible to the left and right. To verify this, turn on the laser and aim it at the sample - you should see a line in the image both to the left and right, and on the object itself. Note that you cannot scan a translucent or transparent sample - it must be coated with something like talcum powder or matte paint. In general, matte objects are much better suited for scanning.

Now you need to shade the room (turn off light sources, curtain the windows). Aim the laser at the specimen again. At this time on the screen, ideally, you should see only a red line on a black background. If this is not the case, then you will have to open the webcam settings again and change them. But first, it's worth moving the Exposure slider left-right. Oh yeah, don't forget to choose the color of your module's laser light. Once everything is ready, you can start a test scan.

Switch the display mode to a depth map (Camera Shows -\u003e Depth Map). Move the laser beam gently into the field of view of the webcam. The beam should be as horizontal as possible, as thin as possible, and the module itself should be held above the camera. Move the beam up and down along the scanned object - and you will see how the program draws its contours in space on the screen with a slight delay. You can’t drive the beam too fast, but moving it too slowly will be of no use. Try to "paint over" the sample with as dense a grid of lines as possible. You also need to ensure that there is no "dirt" - unnecessary lines around the object. It is best to hold the laser module in your hand and move it with your hand only. At the end, you will need to carefully bring the beam line outside the calibration angle.

Chances are, you won't be able to get a clean scan the first time. Experiment with camera and scan settings, camera and laser positions, lighting, filtering (Result filtering, but it's better not to change these values), and so on. In general, you need to properly fill your hand. But then everything will be much easier. Once you get the hang of it and find the optimal values \u200b\u200bfor all parameters, proceed to the final scan. Press Stop and Erase, then Start again and scan the object for the first time. As soon as it seems to you of sufficient quality, click Stop, and then Add to list. Just in case, save a separate copy of the scan by clicking Save As.

Press Stop and Erase again. Rotate the object around the vertical axis so that it overlaps at least a little with the previous position. Repeat the scanning procedure in this way until the object has rotated 360 degrees. Don't forget to save copies of your scans and add them to the list. In principle, it is not at all necessary to rotate the sample around one of the axes (sometimes it is simply impossible), it will just be more convenient that way. Your task is to get 3D scans of an object from all sides in order to merge them together and export.

Let's leave the texturing process for independent study and move on to stitching, for which the Shape Fusion module is responsible. You can do it manually in almost any 3D editor. DAVID-Laserscanner saves scans in the open Alias \u200b\u200bWavefront (* .obj) format, but deliberately lowers the quality in the demo version. You should already have a ready-made list with scanned items. We need to align them with each other. We select the type of alignment in the list. If you "rotated" the object around one axis, then select it. Well, if you also turned at a strictly defined angle, indicate it as well. Then click Align Scans and select two adjacent scans from the list. The program will "think" for a while and will try to align them with each other in a couple of three options. Choose the most accurate one using the buttons with rounded arrows at the top of the window.

Repeat the alignment procedure in pairs between list items - 1-2, 2-3, 3-4, and so on. The result is a rough 3D model. It is possible that some scans will not be aligned in any way - they can be thrown out or aligned at the end of the list, gradually approaching the problem area. You can try choosing a different alignment type for them. Do not pay attention to the “dirt” around the object and imperfections on its surface - the program will eventually smooth them out. In general, the more scans, the better the model can be. But then the probability of an accidental error also increases. Here, as with the scanning itself, you have to go the hard way of trial and error.

As soon as you think that you have achieved the desired degree of alignment of the scans, press the Fuse button and wait while the program prepares the 3D model. Like leveling, this process is quite resource intensive. Very soon you will be able to enjoy (or, conversely, disappoint) the result of your actions. By the way, DAVID-Laserscanner has an alternative operating mode where a projector is used. If you have one, then you can experiment with it, and not with the laser.

The finished model can be exported to the same obj format and opened in a 3D editor for final tweaking and preparation for printing. Naturally, an exact copy of the scanned object cannot be obtained. First, the DAVID-Laserscanner is particularly difficult to trick into various tricky recesses or cavities. Second, reproducing very small surface patterns (such as frequent notches) requires a high camera resolution and as thin a laser line as possible. Thirdly, when scanning, in any case, gaps are obtained, which the program tries to fill, based on the position of nearby points. In general, the ideal, as always, is unattainable.

Finished, maximally smoothed model

In addition, there are obvious restrictions on the size of scanned objects. Too small will not be obtained due to the relatively small scanning resolution, and for very large ones, you need to find a suitable size for a place to set the calibration angle. In addition to DAVID-Laserscanner, there are other software packages with a similar operating principle. True, they often require additional devices to rotate the object or move the laser. However, even the DIY design described above can save a lot of time for inexperienced 3D modelers. So try, experiment and you will definitely succeed! Good luck!

FabScan is an open source, DIY 3D laser scanner. I collected mine from MDF sheets and various improvised tools and, as an example, decided to lay out the creation process for you.

Step 1: what you need

The official FabScan scanner requires:

Arduino UNO
Stepper motor A4988
FabScan-Shield 3D laser scanner module for Arduino
5mW red laser module
Power supply 12V - 1A
Logitech C270 webcam

To create a box, you will need 4 sheets of MDF with a size of 600 * 300 * 5 mm.

In my project I used:

Arduino UNO
Bipolar Stepper Motor - NEMA 17 (200 Steps)
Stepper motor A4988
5mW red laser module
Power supply 12V - 2A
Logitech C270 webcam

Since we will be using the FabScan software, I recommend sticking to their parts list, you can easily find all the documentation for the FabScan reference 3D scanner on the Internet.

Step 2: assembling the gallery box for the 3D scanner

Show 4 more images

I used Dremel and my imagination to assemble the scanner box. This is not easy, as the camera, laser and stepper motor must be in the correct positions in order to get the correct 3D image. If you don't want to bother, then you can just buy ready-made parts, but it will come at a cost.

Step 3: connecting the modules

The hardware assembly is pretty simple:
Connect the FabScan module to the Arduino and set the A4988 motor to its first step position. Connect the motor to the output pins and the laser module to the analog pin A4. Finally, plug in the power supply and USB cable.

If you decide to build a scanner using my parts list:
Then you need to connect the A4988 motor to pins 10, 11, 9, 8 on the Arduino (you can change the pins if you wish), and connect the laser module to pin A4. Finally, connect the power supply and USB cable as well.

Step 4: Code for Arduino

We will use the official code from FabScan. Upload it to Arduino and you're done.

If you have the Codebender plugin installed, you can upload the code to Arduino by clicking on this link.

If you are building a scanner according to my parts list, then click the Edit button and do the following:

Add lines #include const int stepsPerRevolution \u003d 200; // change to the number of steps of your motor Stepper myStepper (stepsPerRevolution, 10, 11,8,9);
Replace step () function with the following: void step () (myStepper.setSpeed \u200b\u200b(1); myStepper.step (1);)

Step 5: software for the computer

We will be using the "FabScan Ubuntu Live DVD" image. You can download it. In this image, the FabScan software is already preinstalled. The image can be written to a flash drive, as can be found on the Internet.

Important note: If you selected the "Try Ubuntu" option, please save your files before shutting down your computer!

Look at the attached photos and follow the points:

Select a port in SerialPort
Select camera in Camera
File - Control Panel
Click on detect laser (don't put anything in the scanner at this stage) and select 'enable'
Click on "Fetch Frame" and make sure the blue horizontal line touches the top of the turntable and the yellow horizontal line touches the bottom. The vertical yellow line must go through the center of the turntable. A loose camera can cause distorted scans!

After setting, close the control panel window, place the object in the scanner, and click on the start scan button.

Saving 3D image:
When the scanning process is completed, you can save the 3D object to a file in .pcd or .ply formats. You can also save it in stl format, but not all platforms support it. You can also open a previously scanned item by choosing File - OpenPointCloud.

What to do with 3D files?
You can open them in MeshLab and print them on a 3D printer.
To print objects in MeshLab:

Save the object in .ply format
Open the file in MeshLab
In MeshLab, calculate normals (Filters / Point Set / Compute normals for point sets)
Reconstruct the surface using Poisson reconstruction (Filters / Point Set / Surface Reconstruction: Poisson)
Done

A professional 3D scanner is a complicated thing and not everyone needs it, and therefore quite expensive. But a simple analogue for digitizing a small number of objects can be done independently and with minimal expenditure of money and time. We will need: a laser module, a webcam, paper, a printer, cardboard or a sheet of plywood, as well as special software. Let's sort everything out in order. We need a laser module with a line-shaped beam (not a point, as in the once popular Chinese pointers). Red modules are the easiest to get, but green, white or blue modules will do. They cost about a thousand rubles when purchased in an offline store. And if you order at some Chinese online flea market, you can save a little, but you have to wait for (slow) mail to deliver it.

We purchased a laser module with a wavelength of 650 nm (red) and a power of 5 mW for the experiment. More powerful lasers are significantly more expensive and more dangerous. Better, of course, to buy a self-powered module, since it is much more convenient. Otherwise, it is imperative to find out the power parameters and attend to the creation of a small "kit" with batteries or accumulators and a switch. Just in case, recall that the red wire is +, and the black one is. Observe the polarity of the connection and the power parameters, otherwise the laser may be damaged. Be sure to read the following warning!

Attention!!! Laser radiation is very dangerous! Never direct the laser beam into the eyes of people (including yourself) and animals - this can cause irreparable damage to vision (for example, burn the retina of the eye)! It is forbidden to look into the laser beam through any optical devices! Do not point the laser beam at any vehicles (including airplanes)! Never give the laser to children or inadequate people, and also make sure that they cannot access the laser! Do not use laser modules with a power of more than 5 mW, as in this case even the reflected beam can pose a hazard! In any case, it is strongly recommended to purchase special protective goggles for work, designed for the wavelength that the laser module emits! Do not hold the laser module at head level! Always follow safety precautions! If you do not understand the meaning of the above, do not use a laser! 3DNews editors and the author do not bear any responsibility for any possible consequences, including injuries caused by laser radiation!

Next on the list is the webcam. It is required that it supports WDM or DirectShow (it seems that all modern models have suitable drivers) and produce at least 30 FPS at 640x480. You can take a worse camera, but the result will be appropriate. The higher the supported resolution and frame rate, the better, but the load on the PC in this case will be more noticeable. The developers of the software we are using, which we will now turn to, recommend giving preference to the Logitech Pro 9000. We used the Logitech HDPro Webcam 910. The ideal option is to use a good black and white camera with a CCD matrix.

Finally, about the most important thing - about a program that will convert a flat image from a webcam into a three-dimensional model. This is the well-known utility DAVID-Laserscanner, which has already made it into the news of our resource. Recently a major release was released, the third in a row. To work correctly, the PC must have Microsoft .NET Framework version 2.0 or later installed. It should be noted right away that the full version of the program costs 329 euros. The demo is almost complete, but does not allow saving the finished 3D model. It seems our readers don't need to be told where to get the correct version. If you are a crystal clear soul and you have 400 euros free, then buy a ready-made branded set of a webcam with a stand, software, calibration panels with mounts and a red laser with power. If not, then you need to start by making a calibration angle.

In principle, the process of setting up and working with the utility is well described in the project wiki. So we will only briefly describe the main stages of work. Download and install DAVID-Laserscanner. In the program folder in the Printout directory you will find files with calibration surface templates for A3 and A4 formats. It is necessary to choose the appropriate format based on the size of the scanned object. You can roughly estimate, relying on the fact that the height of the scanned object should be 1.5-2 times less than the height of the calibration angle. Print the templates, cut or fold them along the fold lines, and attach them to two flat surfaces - plywood or cardboard, on the walls in the corner of the room, inside a box, and so on. In general, turn on your imagination.

The main condition is that the angle between the two planes should be 90 degrees and not change. You also need to make sure that the printed pages remain smooth and even, and there is nothing glossy on their surface. The developers, in particular, recommend fixing the printed sheets with adhesive. It is also important not to confuse the orientation of the sheets. On the printout, measure and remember the length (in mm) of the line labeled Scale. We will be scanning a small owl figurine as an example. In this case, an A4 size template came up, which was attached to a piece of cardboard folder with a stapler.

When the corner is ready, you need to position the webcam so that it looks exactly at the fold line. There is one more nuance - there should be as large an angle as possible between the line of sight of the camera and the scanning laser beam. Therefore, you can make the camera look up slightly. You may need to make small stands for the scanned object and the camera itself. Most importantly, you need to ensure that the camera position and calibration angle can be rigidly fixed relative to each other after setup and calibration. If you do not need texturing of an object, then the webcam should be switched to black and white mode immediately.

The calibration process will have to be repeated before each new scan. Now you can place the scanned object in a corner (you can use a stand) and go to the 3D Laser Scanning section. The object must be in the center of the camera image, and parts of the calibration angle must be visible to the left and right. To verify this, turn on the laser and aim it at the sample - you should see a line in the image both to the left and right, and on the object itself. Please note that you cannot scan a translucent or transparent sample - it needs to be coated with something like talcum powder or matte paint. In general, matte objects are much better suited for scanning.

Switch display mode to depth map (Camera Shows -\u003e Depth Map). Move the laser beam carefully into the field of view of the webcam. The beam should be as horizontal as possible, as thin as possible, and the module itself should be held above the camera. Move the beam up and down along the scanned object - and you will see how the program draws its contours in space on the screen with a slight delay. You can’t drive the beam too fast, but moving it too slowly will be of no use. Try to "paint over" the sample with as dense a grid of lines as possible. You also need to ensure that there is no "dirt" - unnecessary lines around the object. It is best to hold the laser module in your hand and move it with your hand only. At the end, you will need to carefully bring the beam line outside the calibration angle.

Finished, maximally smoothed model

History of appearance

3D scanning technology emerged just a few decades ago, at the end of the 20th century. The first working prototype appeared in the 60s. Of course, then he could not boast of a wide range of possibilities, but it was a real 3D scanner that copes well with the main function.

In the mid-1980s, scanning devices were improved. They began to be supplemented with lasers, white light sources and dimming. Thanks to this, it was possible to improve the "capture" of the objects under study. During this period, contact sensors appear. With their help, the surface of solid objects was digitized, which did not differ in complex shape. To improve the equipment, the developers had to borrow a number of optical technologies from the military industry.

The use of 3d scanners was interesting not only for designers of design studios, automobile concerns, but also for workers in the film industry. In the 80s - 2000s, various companies produced their own equipment models: Head Scanner, REPLICA 3D scanner and others. Since then, the units have changed, improved, become more mobile and functional. The characteristics of a 3d scanner today differ significantly.

3D scanning methods and technologies

There are two main methods:

Contact. The device probes an object through physical contact while the object is on a precision surface plate. The 3D contact scanner is extremely precise. However, when scanning, you can damage or change the shape of the object.
Contactless. Radiation or special light (ultrasound, X-rays) is used. In this case, the object is scanned through the reflection of the light flux.

3D scanning technologies:

Laser. The operation of the devices is based on the principle of operation of laser rangefinders. 3D laser scanners are characterized by the accuracy of the resulting three-dimensional model. True, their application is difficult in conditions of object mobility. It is more of a 3D indoor scanner. Scanning a person with a laser-type 3d scanner is almost impossible.
Optical. In this case, a special laser of the second safety class is used. Optical 3D scanner features high scanning speed. Its use eliminates any distortion, even if the object is moving. Also, there is no need to apply reflective marks. However, such devices are not suitable for examining mirror-like, transparent or shiny objects. But this is a great option for a 3d human scanner.

Modern 3d scanners

Devices can differ in many ways: use, size, shape, technology. Modern units are used in both industrial and domestic spheres. Industrial 3d scanner is useful in:

engineering;
medicine;
production;
design;
the film industry;
the sphere of creating computer games.

I would like to pay special attention to the ultrasound 3d scanner. He is a real find for modern medicine. The devices are supplied with power, color, tissue, continuous wave and pulse Dopplers. This unit is characterized by the highest resolution, therefore, it is popular in mammology, obstetrics, urology, vascular and muscle tissue research, echocardiography, neonatology, pediatrics.

The devices also differ according to the principle of operation. The market offers a stationary or portable, that is, a handheld 3D scanner. In the second case, a coordinate-sensitive detector or a charge-coupled apparatus is used as a sensor. This unit is extremely convenient in that it can be moved freely. The portable 3D scanner is ideal for scanning hard-to-reach areas or large objects. Measurement can be taken at any angle, around or under the objects under test.

The devices are used in conjunction with various equipment. It can be not only a 3d scanner for a 3d printer, but also a 3d scanner for ipad. Modern manufacturers of such units produce mobile devices that work not only with stationary computers, but also with tablets or even smartphones. In addition, there are special programs with the help of which ordinary telephones turn into scanners. For example, you can find a 3d scanner for android. He will help you design unique parts, carry out rapid prototyping and digitization of objects.

Which 3D scanner should you buy? TOP 5 best 3D scanners of 2018 from 3Dtool

Hello everyone, with you company.
In the modern world, all the development of new devices and prototypes is carried out in various CAD systems. All design, both technical products and design works, takes place electronically. 3D models for everything in the world are already an established reality. That is why, to facilitate the creation of 3D models, 3D scanners have appeared on the market.
3D scanners are devices that very accurately create a three-dimensional copy of any physical object. And today we will tell you about 5 of the best 3D scanners according to our version, which you should pay attention to.

1.

It is a desktop 3D scanner developed by Shining 3D. The company specializes in the production of 3D scanners for a wide variety of tasks. Sales are carried out all over the world.
This scanner uses 2 cameras with a resolution of 1.3 megapixels for scanning.
The basic package of the 3D scanner includes an automatic turntable. Which forms a single software and hardware complex.
The accuracy of scanning objects is up to 0.1 mm.
Also, the scanner can work in the texture capture mode (i.e. scan in color).
There are 2 scanning modes: automatic (with turntable) and fixed (without turntable).
When working in automatic mode using a turntable, the 3D scanner is able to scan objects up to 200x200x200 mm in size.
Using the fixed scan function, you can scan large objects up to 700 x 700 x 700 mm, but without the pan.
The EinScan SE scanner scans the object by projecting a sequence of white light beams onto the object, while cameras, in turn, capture all the irregularities on the surface of the scanned object, and create a 3D model in the 3D scanner software online.

The basic package includes:

Scan unit (cameras and projector)
Rotary scanning table
Calibration field for initial scanner setup
Base for placing scanner elements
Software in Russian

Benefits:

Ease of operation
Maximum automated

Disadvantages:

Low accuracy
The need to use an NVIDIA graphics card.

2.
This is a versatile, semi-professional, 3D scanner that is suitable for scanning objects from 5 cm to 3 meters.
The scanning uses the principle of Structured Illumination.
The 3D scanner has three built-in scanning zones, thanks to this, the user can optimally adjust the scanning parameters for objects of different sizes. If necessary, you can combine several scanning zones: for example, if a large object has a small area with small details that require high detailing, it can be scanned with zone No. 3, while the object itself can be scanned with zone No. 1.

RangeVision Spectrum 3D scanner can operate in three scanning modes:

Using marks (which can be applied both to the scanned object itself and on the surface around it)
Scanning using a rotary device (table)
Scanning without rotator and without marks.

Scanner comes with one set of manual lenses for three scan zones 3D RangeVision Spectrum - allows you to obtain 3D models of objects with an accuracy of 0.04 to 0.12 mm. It is also suitable for performing engineering tasks, where its accuracy is sufficient.

I would also like to note the advanced (expert) software. This is a proprietary development of RangeVision. The software is included with the 3D scanner, and the manufacturer does not charge for license renewals or upgrades. It allows you to perform both post-processing of the model after scanning, and very finely adjust the scanner for the scanned object.
The kit includes a turntable that allows you to scan small objects weighing up to 5kg in automatic mode without any problems. It is also possible to scan objects up to 3 meters without a turntable.
Benefits:

High scan quality
Large scanning range from 5 cm to 3 m

Disadvantages:

Mastering the software will take time. However, as of 07/10/2018, RangeVision has released a new software version, which has become much easier.

3.
This is a handheld 3D scanner for scanning objects from 5 cm to 4 meters. Maximum scanning accuracy up to 0.05 mm (50 microns). Scanning speed: 550,000 points / second.
The 3D scanner is suitable for both human and non-living objects.
The scanner has the following operating modes:

Handheld HD Scan (high resolution manual scan mode). The scanning accuracy in this mode is 0.1 mm. Markers are required for scanning (supplied). Scanning in color is not possible. This mode is required for solving tasks of scanning large objects with high accuracy in manual mode.
Handheld Rapid Scan (fast manual scan mode). Optimal mode for scanning people. Scanning accuracy 0.3 mm. Scanning in color is possible (with a color scanning module). This mode is suitable for fast scanning of large objects.
Automatic Scan. Scanning is performed using a turntable. Scanning accuracy up to 0.05 mm (50 microns). Suitable for scanning small objects in automatic mode.

4.Fixed Scan. Scanning takes place using a tripod and markers. Markers are randomly glued to the scanned object. The object is rotated manually or by moving the tripod with the scanner around the object. Scanning accuracy 0.05 mm (50 microns).
The Shinig3D Einscan Pro Plus 3D scanner can additionally be equipped with the following modules: color scanning module, industrial package (tripod and rotary device).

After scanning, the operator receives files in formats - OBJ ， STL ， ASC ， PLY. These formats are suitable for all existing 3D printers, CNC machines or 3D editors. There will be no compatibility issues.
The Einscan Pro Plus 3D scanner is highly mobile and has the simplest operation. When creating it, special attention was paid to the possibility of working with the scanner by untrained people. Therefore, all processes are automated as much as possible.
The software is supplied with the scanner - free of charge.
Benefits:

4 operating modes
Relatively low cost
Process automation
Ease of use

Disadvantages:

Requires a "gaming" computer with an NVIDIA graphics card to work.
A matte spray coating is required to scan black, shiny, shiny objects.

4.

This 3D scanner based on structured illumination is an ideal choice if you need to create a 3D model of a medium-sized object in color, for example: a person, a car bumper.
Artec Eva is a versatile portable 3D scanner that makes it the market leader in professional handheld 3D scanners. The device is based on safe structured lighting technology. This is a great all-round solution for shooting any subject, including subjects with black and shiny surfaces. This scanner does not need to be calibrated. it is already calibrated from the factory.
Scanning accuracy up to 0.1 mm. The positioning accuracy of the 3D point is 0.5 mm.
The scanner is equipped with a 1.3 MPix camera.
Color scanning mode is supported.
The scanning speed is up to 2 million points per second, due to which the scanning is very fast.
Benefits:

High speed 3D scanning
The ability to work in an open space (outdoors)
Scans black and shiny objects.

Disadvantages:

Requires a gaming graphics card to work
Solution cost

5.

A professional scanner that allows three-dimensional digitization of both large and small physical objects. Three scanning zones are provided for the 3D scanner, which allow digitizing with the necessary detail and accuracy both jewelry and car body elements.
The user can carry out 3D scanning using auxiliary markers, according to which the software can automatically "assemble" to align the scans. In addition, thanks to the support of markers and the ability to import reference networks generated by photogrammetric systems manufactured by GOM and Aicon, it is possible to achieve scanning accuracy of up to 0.05 mm on objects over 2 m. However, if you are dealing with museum pieces or other objects that require special care, the RangeVision PRO5M 3D scanner will allow you to scan without markers and build a 3D model according to the geometry of the object itself.
RangeVision PRO5M 3D scanner working on structured illumination compares favorably with similar 3D laser scanners in terms of scanning speed.
This scanner is equipped with 5MP cameras and comes with a separate set of pre-configured lenses for each scan area.
In addition, blue backlight technology is supported to reduce the influence of ambient light.
Scan time is only 15 seconds.
Basic equipment:

Scanning module,
2 industrial cameras
A set of lenses for each scan area
Swivel head tripod
Calibration plate set
Matting spray
Software.

Benefits:

High quality and speed of scanning
Large scanning range from 5 cm to 5 m
Professional software
Automatic scanning with turntable and marks.
Free software updates

Disadvantages:

Mastering the software will take time
Not suitable for human scanning

All 3D scanners presented in this article can be purchased from our company. And subscribe to our groups in social networks:

3D scanner

Useful articles:

The first 3D printers, which cost less than a gaming computer, have become a must-have for almost any hackspace or fablab (technical creativity and electronic art laboratories). Now they are joined by 3D scanners. MIPT student and employee of the Polytechnic Museum Daniil Velovaty himself assembled a three-dimensional scanner from a laser, a web camera and scrap materials. Within the framework of the special project "Phystech. Reader, ”he told T&P about the future of reality scanning.

It was easy to get used to three-dimensional printers: I drew the necessary part or figure on a computer, loaded it into the printer - and a few hours later took its embodiment in plastic. But what is really in plastic, they are already printing in metal, and even in organic matter: they recently printed a living liver. No wonder you want to go further. The next step is scanning. Oddly enough, but before the advent of 3D printers, there was no great need to transfer a real object to the digital world: the creators of games and films simply hired artists who painted everything they needed. The need for scanners arose only when it was important to convey the relief and shape of an object with very high accuracy. At the same time, neither scan duration nor cost were often completely unimportant. This is how the first representatives of 3D scanners appeared: lidars.

Lidar (from English Light Detection and Ranging) is an expensive but very accurate device. It allows building 3D models of objects with millimeter accuracy, the size of which can be compared to the size of a building. From the decoding of the abbreviation LIDAR it follows that it is any range finder that measures distance using light. An incredible number of devices fall under this description. But most often, lidars are called devices like this:

A special system of mirrors is located inside the apparatus. A phase laser rangefinder is installed here, which measures the distance using a laser, and two mirrors serve to deflect the laser beam in two planes. Thus, the ray traverses a certain sector of space and builds its 3D model. As you might guess, the speed of such a scanner depends on the speed of the rangefinder and the speed of rotation of the mirrors. And since all this is rather complicated equipment that requires fine tuning, it costs quite a lot of money. It is much more profitable to order a scan than to buy the machine itself. Moreover, you still need to figure out how to use it.

Technologies for earthlings

Since the devices of the industrial sector were, to put it mildly, beyond the affordability of the average consumer, and the need to scan reality grew, cheap desktop and handheld 3D scanners appeared. The first, as a rule, have a turntable on which the object under study is placed. A few minutes after the start of scanning, we will receive a finished model. Of course, the quality of scanning and the size of the scanned area are incomparable with lidars, but they cost several orders of magnitude cheaper. The scanner developed by us belongs to this class of devices. The main problem with these scanners is that the scanned object must fit on the turntable, which severely limits the scope. Another significant disadvantage of these scanners is incomplete scanning and blind spots. If you try to scan a vase, for example, the scanner will only see the outside of it, not the cavity inside.

The second type of scanners are handheld 3D scanners. They need to be carried around the object by hand, but they build the model with the help of cameras. The operating algorithm of such scanners is much more complicated, they are more expensive, and the quality of the result is worse, but they allow you to scan large objects and spend less time on it. They look something like this:

One of the main advantages of such a scanner is that it is not limited to the scanning area. We can scan, for example, a person's face without having to put their head on a rotating table. With some diligence, even an entire room can be scanned, as long as the positioning accuracy allows it. To improve accuracy, you can stick special marks that the scanner finds and uses as reference points. Actually, in the photo above, this is done. This approach limits the scanning area, but, unfortunately, here either the sheep are safe or the wolves are fed.

In our laboratory, we decided to create a cheap 3D scanner with an accuracy comparable to that of 3D printing. It was our first serious project, so we made mistakes, didn't understand a lot and learned even more in the process. We first built a simple laser rangefinder from a laser pointer and a webcam. To understand how a 2D camera allows you to measure distance, you have to use your imagination. Imagine a thread stretched in the air along which a spider is crawling. If we stand close to the rope, then we see how the spider is crawling strictly on us (not a very pleasant sight). And if now we shine a lamp on the side of this whole structure, we will see a shadow on the floor. Since the light comes from the side, the projection of the spider will move along the projection of the filament. By measuring the distance from the beginning of the thread's shadow to the spider's shadow, we can calculate how much the spider has crawled by multiplying by some factor, because we are creating a squeezing display.

Our scanner works in approximately the same way. Only instead of a thread - a laser beam, and instead of a screen with a shadow - a camera. Just like a spider moves along a filament, a spot moves along a laser beam, which occurs when this beam hits an obstacle. Having found the position of the spot in the photograph, we can determine the distance to the object at which this spot is located. In words, it is difficult. The picture looks simpler:

But such a rangefinder measures the distance to a single point, and this takes a very long time. Therefore, we put a lens on the laser, which turns the laser spot into a laser line. Now we measure the distance up to hundreds of points at once (after all, the line can be represented as a set of points), it remains to build a system that allows this line to go over the entire object, and for this we need a turntable on which the object is placed.

The scanner itself is assembled from plywood parts that have been laser cut. A stepper motor is used to rotate the table, which is controlled by a board developed by us. It also controls the brightness of the laser and backlight.

The processing of the image from the camera takes place on a computer, for this a program was written in Java. After the end of the scan, the program generates a so-called cloud of points, which are combined with the help of another program into a full-fledged model. This model can already be printed on a 3D printer, that is, you can get a copy of a real object.

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