The situation when the refrigerator has broken is always unexpected and unpleasant. Especially on the eve of a big feast or in extreme heat, when it is necessary to carefully monitor the freshness of the food. Often, users are faced with a different problem when the freezer works, and the refrigerator practically does not cool. How to determine the cause?

Why does the refrigerator cool badly?

Such a breakdown is rarely immediately noticed, since the indicator of serviceability is not the indicators on the thermometer in the refrigerator, but the freezer, which continues to work well. A difference of several degrees is difficult for an ordinary person to feel, but the food in the refrigerator spoils before our eyes.

If a malfunction is detected, you need to find out the reason why the refrigerator does not freeze as soon as possible. Postponing repairs will lead to complete failure, and then the owner will have to spend a lot of money on repairs, if at all possible.

Here is a list possible reasonson which the refrigerator stopped freezing:

• Loose door closing. It is possible that a foreign object has got under the door elastic, which prevents the door from closing hermetically. Check not only its absence, but also the integrity of the protective rubber. Punctures, tears, or flaking encourages cold air to escape;
• High temperature in the room. More typical for single-chamber models. If the refrigerator is near a hot battery or the room is very warm, and the freezer is set for maximum freezing, the electrical motor cannot cope with the high load. Try to choose a more gentle operating mode. Complete defrosting for at least 10 hours will not hurt. After that, re-set the desired temperature and turn on the device. Do not forget about the thermal insulation of the batteries near the refrigerator.
• Another reason why the refrigerator does not cool may be damage to metal cooling elements and freon leakage... This could happen if, during defrosting, you remove ice from the cooling grate with a knife or other metal objects. In this situation, you cannot do without the help of a qualified master. But you can solve the problem without colossal costs. It will be necessary to seal the damaged section of the cooling element and re-fill the system with freon. If you don't want the refrigerator to stop freezing, never force the ice to flake off when defrosting. It is better to wait until it is completely thawed and then remove the loose ice with ease.

The described breakdowns are typical for both single-chamber and double-chamber refrigerators. Basically, such a failure is associated with improper operation, non-compliance with sanitary standards of use and can be independently diagnosed and prevented.

But it happens that the refrigerator does not cool, although all standards are met and there are no apparent reasons for a malfunction. In this case, you need to more carefully inspect the electrical appliance and analyze its operation. Most likely, it will not be possible to repair at home without a master, but you will be able to estimate the cost and duration of the upcoming repair.

Complex technical problems

If the refrigerator does not freeze well, its breakdown may be associated with one of the key structural elements. Let's look at the main motor problems that cause the refrigerator to not cool the air to the correct temperature - fan motor failure.

In this case, you will not hear the characteristic sound that the fan makes during operation. Breakage occurs due to freezing of the element and requires its mandatory replacement by a specialized master.

Since the motor does not work constantly, but only periodically turns on, in order to determine the malfunction, you need to carefully listen to the operation of the refrigerator. You can try turning off the refrigerator and defrosting it completely for 10 hours. If, even after defrosting and restarting, the situation does not improve, you should call the repairman.

Another problem is compressor failure.

A single-chamber refrigerator has one compressor, so its breakdown is immediately visible, since the refrigerator does not cool the air either in the freezer or in the refrigerating chamber and quickly makes itself felt with a leak. A two-compartment refrigerator, such as Indesit and other high-performance brands, has two compressors, separate for the refrigerator and freezer. If the temperature of the refrigerating chamber does not correspond to the set settings, the compressor could be damaged. The problem is solved by replacing the element.

Quite often the refrigerator does not cool due to blockages in the cooling system. The capillary tube through which the refrigerant circulates is prone to clogging. An experienced technician can easily fix the problem with special equipment.

Often the cause of breakdown can be a refrigerant leak in the evaporative system of the refrigerator. Leaks can occur for a variety of reasons, but mostly due to system wear. Such a breakdown can be detected not only by checking the temperature of the refrigerator compartment, but also by rusty smudges inside the freezer compartment, if it is located below. In addition, you may see water or oily smudges underneath the refrigerator itself.

Special attention is paid to malfunctions of various sensors and thermostats. Since in different models refrigerators, for example, Samsung, there may be several of them, their failure entails a change in temperature, ice, snow, smudges, continuous fan operation or long pauses between engine start cycles.

In any of the above cases, do not delay the moment of meeting with the repairman. Not everyone will be able to replace it on their own or solve the problem in any other way, and the operation of the refrigerator with a faulty element increases the load on other systems of the electrical device and can lead to permanent failure without a chance for repair.

What to do if the refrigerator is not cold?

If you notice a significant change in temperature, you must first check:

• Determine clearly that the refrigerator is not working, and that everything is in order with the freezer;
• There may be heating appliances next to the refrigerator. The batteries must be insulated;
• Check the integrity of the sealing gum on the door;
• Check all buttons for adjusting modes and temperatures;
• Determine if there is ice and snow in the freezer. Try a higher freezer temperature. It may happen that the motor simply does not cope with the load when the refrigerator does not cool the air, and the freezer is working in an intensive mode;
• Examine the outside of the refrigerator for rusty, oily or other smudges;
• Is there any deformation of the elements and the inner surface of the refrigerator.

Having correctly determined the nature of the breakdown, you can immediately inform the master about it so that he can take with him the components necessary for replacement. A quick response will help avoid costly and time-consuming repairs.

In the video below, you can see methods for determining the breakdown of a refrigerator with the No Frost system and possible ways to eliminate them.

In contact with

Refrigerators and freezers (designed exclusively for freezing, and not having a moderate cooling mode), technologically cannot work continuously.

The compressor unit is programmed for a cyclic mode: as a rule, 15–20 minutes of operation of the electric motor, then a break, 5–10 minutes. The execution of the program is monitored by a control unit, consisting of a fairly primitive programmer, an electronic timer (in advanced models), and a temperature sensor. In addition, there is a so-called thermal protection relay in the starting device. It monitors the current flowing through the motor winding and breaks the power circuit if it overheats. This is an emergency shutdown unit that is not associated with a mode of operation. That is, if the monitoring and control unit does not give a command for a cyclic shutdown, and the motor overheats, the power still disappears. The engine cannot start until the actuator cools down: the bimetallic plate.

Thus, in the absence of obvious malfunctions, the engine will in any case rest periodically. Either at the end of the cold pumping cycle, or after the safety thermostat has tripped.

Reasons for the violation of the compressor cycle

If your freezer is running continuously, the motor overheats because it has no means to cool it. The situation is aggravated by the fact that the electric motor is housed in a hermetically sealed case, in which there is not even an elementary heat sink. And the compressor itself in this mode wears out much faster. If the cause of the cycle failure is not eliminated, the main refrigeration unit will fail. The repair is comparable to the cost of the entire unit, especially if it is used.

Why doesn't the chest freezer turn off on time?

Important: Before rushing to find a fault, carefully monitor the operation of the unit for at least 30-40 minutes. During this time, there must be a change of modes (work / rest) at least once.

If the suspicions are confirmed, we deal with the situation.

To begin with, let's analyze the reasons that are not faults in their pure form.

If the freezer does not freeze while the compressor is running continuously, go through this list. All causes are eliminated without calling the wizard, since they are not malfunctions.

Real malfunctions that disrupt the cycling of the freezer

• A serious mechanical problem is the condition of the insulation. Insulation is located between the outer metal body and the inner plastic walls. It can be foam, polyurethane foam, or other material with a high thermal insulation coefficient. If even a small amount of moisture gets into it, a zone is formed that ideally conducts heat (in our case, cold). Heat exchange occurs between the inner and outer walls, and all the frost from the inside falls on the outer walls. Of course, no compressor can cope with such a job: freeze the entire room in which the chest freezer is located. It is almost impossible to dry the insulation, unless it can be removed in the form of plates. Signs of a problem are persistent perspiration in some areas of the outer wall of the freezer. Operational "repair" - cutting out a wet area (with a margin for the dry zone), and pouring a new heat-insulating material.
  Polyurethane foam is excellent.
• Refrigerant leaking. If there is not enough freon in the system, during the standard freezing cycle, the compressor will not be able to provide the required temperature drop. Diagnostics using an ultraviolet lamp (a phosphorescent additive is added to the freon). In addition, at the initial stage of the leak, a characteristic smell of freon is felt around the freezer.If the problem was not localized using the primary signs, the freezer chest must be cleaned of food, turn off the power and completely defrost the chamber. When you turn it on again, you will immediately understand whether there is a refrigerant or not. Refueling the system with your own hands is possible, if you have the appropriate equipment and experience in performing such work.
  However, repairing the freezer with your own hands with such a breakdown can lead to compressor failure. Better to call the master.
• Thermostat malfunction. The control unit does not receive information about reaching the required temperature. The controller "thinks" that the cycle is not over and does not give a command to turn off the motor. The breakdown can be easily eliminated with your own hands: the thermostat is replaced in half an hour.
• A related problem is the failure of the protective element of the starting relay. During continuous operation, sooner or later, the supply conductor overheats. If this does not work protective shutdown - it is necessary to check the bimetallic plate. If it is impossible to fix the breakdown, the element must be replaced. The operation is also performed independently.
  
• Clogged capillary tube in condenser system. This will prevent the refrigerant from circulating properly in the system and the freezer will not generate cold. As a result, the electric motor will run continuously and at increased load. The cause of the malfunction is the burning of the lubricant in the compressor. A special oil is present in the refrigerant and circulates with it through the pipes of the system. With spot overheating, solid slags are formed, which can clog the thin orifice of the capillary throttle. Eliminate by flushing the system, evacuating, and then charging with new refrigerant (and oil).
• Compressor breakdown. At the same time, the engine is running, it seems to you that the system is working properly. And the compressor pump does not drive freon through the tubes. There is no frost in the chamber, the thermostat does not signal the control unit to shutdown. DIY repair is unlikely. With such a malfunction, it is more profitable to buy a new (or serviceable used) compressor of similar performance.
• There may be a problem with the freezer control board. Self-diagnostics and repairs are possible subject to availability electrical circuit and experience with electronics. You may need not only a multimeter, but also an oscilloscope.
• The fan in the chest freezer is not working. It cools the condenser radiator forcibly.
  If this does not happen, a sufficient amount of cold does not form inside the chamber, the compressor starts to work continuously.

We have analyzed the main reasons why the freezer does not turn off. This situation can arise not only in a separate unit for freezing food. If the main compartment of the refrigerator is working properly and the freezer does not produce the required temperature, the symptoms will be the same. The control system will "drive" freon in a circle without interruption for the rest cycle.

Freezer malfunctions in two-compartment refrigerators

In addition to the reasons listed:

• If you have one compressor for two chambers (refrigerator and freezer), there is a valve in the common system that switches freon between the circuits. If it fails, half of the system will not work. The refrigerant will only provide cold in one part of the unit.
• In the version with two compressors, we diagnose the autonomous part of the system in which the problem is detected. Of course, each individual circuit has its own control system and thermostat.

Outcome

Despite the fact that freezers are complex devices, some of the faults can be eliminated by yourself. And half of the problems do not relate to breakdowns at all: just follow the operating instructions and service the unit on time.

Related Videos

The refrigerator works, but does not freeze. It happens. There are several reasons. Freon leaks more often. How will the gas pass through the copper (steel, aluminum) forming the tract? Seams crack at times. Fatal signs are invisible to the eye, molecules freely pass outside. The pressure decreases, the technique ceases to perform the assigned functions. The reason is not the only one.

Refrigerator freon leak

The operating modes of the refrigerator are clearly calculated. First of all, we will ensure the correct freon pressure. Refueling is an art, the lot of craftsmen. In a car repair shop, the refrigerant cylinder is weighed with a scale, filling it as needed. Grams count. Refrigerators are not easy. The old freon is replaced with a new, safe ozone layer, dangerous from the point of view of ignition. Isobutane provides better performance, less is required. If a leak occurs, the concentration does not reach the explosive threshold.

Freon pressure is low - the compressor is running, controlled by a start-up relay. Frost will form poorly, the effect will be zero. Depends on the degree of neglect. The pressure indicator is monitored through a special technological branch pipe used by the repairmen. An easy detail to spot: a clogged brass thing sticking out near the compressor. Passing the entrance (more precisely, two entrances), freon is vented, refueled, spontaneously flows out. Service maintenance will require the purchase of a special kit. You need to perform the following operations:

1. Locate the leak. The leak detector is difficult to identify a breakdown - compressed air is supplied to the system. First you need to make sure: the breakdown affects the freon circuit. One problem: a rare leak detector can smell air. Directionally sharpened models, detect various types of freon. We'll have to use good old soap suds, similar folk remedies. After finishing refueling, check the finished system with a factory leak detector.
2. At first, it was possible to localize the place of leakage - the trouble is corrected by replacing the site, soldering the seams. After that, it is necessary to remove oxygen from the system, you will have to wait an additional 15 minutes, while maintaining zero pressure inside the compressor: the remaining water will gradually come out. Why it is important to follow the instructions, let's say below, believe me: a couple of drops of moisture can seriously disrupt the operation of the device. After an indefinite time, the problem of frost will again come to the fore, taking the forefront. Sensing zero pressures, the ice begins to evaporate. The process is called sublimation. The fact of the disappearance of the glacier was discovered a couple of centuries ago, and was actively used by developing technology. A master who appreciates personal time wants to start refueling right away, drive it to the neck, paying for the part of the work done. Passing through the capillary tube, freon is released for a long time, evaporation of ice, moisture is a long process. Take some time.
3. After draining the system, start refueling. Car services use scales, the refrigerator has an individual volume. Focusing on the magnitude of pressure, remember: it is customary to measure mass. It is recommended to remove excess from standard cans of isobutane (30 g) before refueling. The substance is harmless to the precious ozone layer, it is permissible to bleed off on the street. The remaining weight is equal to the filling weight. Determined by means of a balance. We consider this approach to be outdated. Today, kitchen scales are accurate to 0.1 g, enough to fill a refrigerator with isobutane. Each model has a zero weight function. We put the cylinder connected to the system on the scales without zeroing. We wait carefully, refueling, until the mass reaches the desired one. It is desirable that the elastic forces of the hose do not distort the measurements. And how to do it, decide for yourself, gentlemen!
4. The process of filling the system is followed by a check with a leak detector, after the service pipes are pinched, sealed exactly until the next time. Forgot to mention: filter drier needs to be changed. Let's tell you why you need it.

Filter drier and water: link to the correct operating mode of the refrigerator

Idealizing, there is no water or air inside the freon circuit. They get there randomly. Mostly during installation, they seep through microcracks. As a result, the regime is violated. If a big trouble does not happen from the ingress of air, the efficiency drops, water will become a real disaster. That's what a filter drier is for inside. Catches steam from the passing jet.

What happens when there is free water inside? The refrigerator works, does not freeze, the compressor may whine slightly. After the condenser, the freon passes through a capillary tube, which the refrigerator needs to implement the expansion phase. At the outlet of the evaporator, the temperature is relatively low. The capillary tube is made of copper, but, firstly, it is long, so it is difficult to freeze evenly, and secondly, the flow comes, excuse the populism, from warm edges, where the compressor and condenser are. The water freezes, blocking the outlet, forming an ice plug. Liquid freon evaporates easily, ice, in the current state of affairs, will not be prone to sublimation. Therefore, the path is gradually clogged, the refrigerator works, the frost does not produce.

A typical sign that water has entered the freon circuit. If the refrigerator is turned off, then turned on again, the problem disappears until a new plug freezes. There is only one way out - to call the master. We'll have to replace the freon, along the way - the filter drier. How to do it is described above.

Typical refrigerator breakdowns

The refrigerator is equipped with special temperature sensors. Bimetallic plates, but thermistors may be used in newer models. Further depends on how many contours. If there is one, the settings are set for both cameras at once (according to some information, there are devices where the restriction is removed). In the case of two circuits, a situation is possible when the refrigerator freezes, but the freezer does not work, or, conversely, the freezer is frozen and the refrigerator is warm.

In the latter case, the reason is due to the breakdown of one circuit. May refuse:

1. Compressor. Motor burned out.
2. Compressor control circuit. Inverter refrigerator disease.
3. If the starter relay fails, the compressor will not start.
4. Freon leakage from the circuits is possible.
5. The presence of water has the same consequences as discussed above.
6. Failure of the thermostat or sensor causes an elevated temperature, the refrigerator freezes.
7. Have a NoFrost system, the problem will be explained by a faulty fan (s). Also (less likely) the air circulation channel can be clogged with ice. Considering that the supply is often only from the bottom of the refrigerating chamber, the situation is possible if the drain was forgotten to be cleaned in time.

In a single-circuit refrigerator, both chambers do not work at once. Caused by the listed reasons. Refrigerators with a combined NoFrost, where one evaporator works for both chambers at once, are very common. They have one freon circuit, but cooling can break down separately. Because there are either two fans, or air flow regulators. However, there is another reason why it is the lower compartment that can fail.

If the refrigerating chamber is located at the bottom, moisture is removed directly through the air-passing channel, it is just that at some stage the branches are separated. The drainage is clogged - ice gradually begins to accumulate, because the air is icy. There is an evaporator between the sections, from which two channels are laid to each chamber:

• air intake;
• air supply.

A fan works for each circuit; or there can be one fan, air supply is regulated by dampers. The condenser collects frost due to the low temperature. This is why there is an opinion: the NoFrost system dries food. When the refrigerator needs to be thawed, a special coil heats up the condenser while the moisture drains. Ice clogs the lower chamber path if the drain is clogged. In severe cases, a real ice age is at the bottom. You will have to defrost the device manually, clean the drainage, remove excess moisture.

What to do if the refrigerator does not freeze. The answer is to wait for the master. Before coming, try to determine the reason, control the actions of the craftsman. Many try to make it faster, the quality suffers. There is nothing wrong with understanding the manipulation of the master. Knowledge will come in handy in other areas. Similarly, the freon circuit of the car of the air conditioning system is refueled. There is a specificity, disinfection of the condenser leaving the salon is often required, the meaning is the same.

There are many breakdowns that can cause a stop. Users look into this part of the refrigerator less often, therefore it is not always possible to notice a breakdown in time. Let's figure out why either the chest freezer stopped freezing.

What should you look out for first?

The freezer may not be broken, and the reason for inaction is the improper use of the device. It is necessary to inspect the thermostat. If the thermostat numbers between three and four, then it is working correctly. The food will freeze and the motor will run properly. The chamber will be about 15-20 degrees below zero. If you accidentally hook the regulator, no cold will be generated, and the numbers on the device will drop to a minimum.

Another reason is that the freezer has not been defrosted for a long time, and a lot of ice has accumulated there. Therefore, the seal does not fit tightly, and warm air gets inside. Every time the motor is turned off, the ice begins to melt and water drips down. To fix this problem, you need to check the seal.

If the temperature in the chamber is low, and there is not much ice, but the freezer still does not work, then some part has broken.

Why could the freezer stop freezing?

There are many details that affect the operation of the freezer. Among them:

1. A motor that is directly responsible for the operation of the freezer. If it turns on, runs for a few seconds and immediately turns off, it means that the motor-compressor is broken. There are two reasons for this malfunction. The first is that the refrigerator has been around for many years and the motor has never been replaced. The second is a high load on the motor (set the minimum temperature on the thermostat on a hot summer day). The compressor needs to be replaced. It will cost about 2,000 rubles.

   

   Freezer motor

2. The motor runs, but rests for a very long time. If the refrigerator has an electronic control unit, then there is a problem with the air sensor. It is necessary to transmit information to the control unit that the temperature rises in the freezer, but it does not start the motor. The air sensor needs to be replaced. It costs about 2,000 rubles.
3. If the refrigerator is electromechanically controlled, the thermostat is broken. It has the same function as an air sensor. You need to buy a new thermostat. The issue price is about 2,000 rubles.

   

   Thermostat

4. The freezer works, but it doesn't freeze well. This problem often concerns refrigerators of no-frost models that work without frost. The switching valve is out of order. It is needed to switch the temperature between refrigerator and freezer. The valve switched and stopped at the refrigerator, therefore the temperature in the freezer will be equal to the temperature in the refrigerator. In this case, you will have to replace the switch, the cost of which is about 2500 rubles.

   

   This is what the switching valve looks like

5. The freezer began to freeze weakly, and then stopped freezing at all. The frost in the chamber is maintained by a gas called freon. Most likely, it was leaked. It is necessary to fill the freezer with freon. You also need to find the place where it came from and patch it up. Elimination of such a breakdown will cost 3000 rubles.

   

   Freon is sold in such containers

6. Rust starts to build up in the freezer. This can lead to vaporization of the freon as rust can make holes. If the drainage system is broken, water will constantly accumulate inside. Over time, this will lead to rust. It eats away at the plastic, and holes appear on it through which freon evaporates. Wipe off water in a timely manner. If the breakage has already occurred, get rid of the rust, seal the holes, and fill the freezer with freon. About 3000 rubles.

Accumulation of water

1. You defrost the unit using artificial heat sources (for example, put a container of boiling water in it). Or they removed the ice by hand or with improvised means. After this defrosting, the freezer stopped working: most likely, you damaged the plastic, and freon leaked out. Do not help the freezer to thaw. Everything should happen naturally. Such methods to speed up defrosting worked only on older models of refrigerators. In new ones, parts are installed, the operation of which does not provide for such methods of defrosting. Find the place that has been damaged, patch it up, and fill the freezer with refrigerant gas. The repair price is about 3000 thousand rubles.
2. No-frost refrigerators have a fuse, defroster and timer, which are responsible for defrosting. If they break, the freezer stops working. Find the broken part and replace it. Repair costs from 5,000 to 8,000 rubles, depending on the type of broken part.



Fuse.

The indicated prices are indicative. They include the cost of the broken part, as well as the work of the master. If you decide to do it yourself, the price of the repair will be about two times lower.

Be careful when repairing yourself. It is necessary to install only those parts that are identical to the old ones. For example, if you put in the wrong thermostat, the motor will break.

The craftsmen are well versed in various breakdowns and give a guarantee for their work. Therefore, it will be easier to call a specialist and, possibly, cheaper.

How to protect the freezer from damage?

There are some tips for saving your freezer:

1. Do not freeze food above room temperature. Wait for them to cool down.
2. Do not help the device to defrost.
3. Close the door tightly to keep warm air out.
4. Correctly set the temperature on the thermostat. Monitor it constantly.
5. Watch out for water accumulation inside. Get rid of it to avoid rust.
6. Follow the instructions for use.

There are many reasons why a freezer won't freeze. If you are well versed in the details and know where and what is located, you can do the replacement yourself. It will be more economical than calling a master.

Symptoms: everything is in order in the freezer, but the temperature in the refrigerator compartment is high and the compressor is running non-stop, which gets very hot.

Since the refrigerator is used, as a rule, much more often than the freezer, then problems with it are much more common. If you notice that the refrigerator has become worse in cooling or does not freeze at all, immediately begin to deal with the problem.

To begin with, we advise you to carry out a simple one on your own: it is possible that the original reason is simple to the point of banality: the refrigerator is not installed correctly (crooked or too close to heating battery), problems with electrical wiring, dry seal, "fuse" defrost button and other little things.

If no visible simple faults are found, then the reason is a breakdown of some of the internal units of the refrigerator: a thermostat, a temperature sensor, a fan, a blockage in the drainage system, an electronic control unit, a compressor. In such situations, it is better not to try to repair yourself, but immediately contact the workshop. But first, read the other sections on this page to see if this can help you more accurately pinpoint the root cause of the problem.

Freezer does not work

Symptoms: In the freezer and refrigerator chambers, the temperature is high and the compressor runs non-stop, which is very hot.

If problems arise in the freezer, then they often spread to the refrigerator: after all, freon first enters the freezer, and if it does not freeze there, then, most likely, the same will be in the refrigerator.

Possible reasons for the inoperative freezer are, in general, the same as for the refrigerator: see the "" section on the same page.

Primary diagnosis

Often, something in the refrigerator does not work for the most common reasons, which you can easily eliminate on your own - start with them.

The "snow coat" has grown

Everything is clear here: you forgot about the freezer and it is all overgrown with ice: prepare rags and defrost the refrigerator.

Ice blocked sensors

One of the consequences of an overgrown "snow coat" may be the blocking of temperature sensors located inside the chamber: in this case, they transmit incorrect information to the control unit, and the latter sends incorrect commands to the compressors.

Wrong temperature selected

It is possible that you set the temperature in the chamber too high, because of which the food in it began to deteriorate quickly. It is difficult to advise something here: select the correct temperature empirically, and do not forget that different products require different cooling for their safety. You should not set too high a temperature in an attempt to save on electricity: you will lose more on spoiled food.

Refrigerator overloaded

When there is too much food in the refrigerator, and if they also block the fan, the compressor may not be able to cope with their cooling. Unload the refrigerator a little, redistribute the food so that the fan is free.

The refrigerator is not installed correctly

If the refrigerator was installed by someone with crooked hands, ignoring the obvious installation requirements, very soon this will affect the quality of the refrigerator. For example, it may not be installed completely straight, which causes the door to bend and warm air from the room enters the refrigerator. Or something prevents the door from closing tightly. By the way, you yourself could have forgotten to close the door tightly: do not be lazy, check again. Naturally, you need to make sure that the refrigerator is not placed too close to appliances that generate a lot of heat or in direct sunlight. It is also necessary to check that the gap between the walls of the refrigerator and nearby objects is not too small.

Wiring problems

Sometimes it happens that the wrong voltage is supplied to the refrigerator due to poor contact between the plug and the outlet: this is a rare case, but it will not hurt to check for your own reassurance.

Fan defective

It is easy to check this: look into the refrigerator and observe the operation of the fan: if it does not turn on for a long time, it means that you have one more problem; you can just listen: the fan motor emits a characteristic sound during operation. However, it often happens that the fan is simply frozen. If the fan does not spin even after defrosting, call the wizard.

Freon leak

Check the back of the case: if there are traces of corrosion, it means a freon leak. This problem is most common in bottom freezers. It is better to call a specialist who will provide the necessary sealing and refuel freon.

"Eternal defrost"

Quite anecdotal case: the defrost button "stuck". Examine it carefully, and if you notice that the button is skewed and clamped in the wrong position, squeeze it out, and then still figure out why this happened - maybe some kind of breakdown or a structural defect. Well, or you yourself just forgot to turn it off: it happens everyday. The same applies to the "Vacation" button, which you have not disabled after returning from vacation.

Dry seal

Symptoms: the seal on the door is dry, cracked, does not fit tightly.

Over time, the door seal dries up, which is why cold air seeps out: if the disease has gone too far, the compressor has to spend too much time maintaining the required temperature, it overheats, and the protective relay can simply turn it off (or the compressor will break down altogether, which will a real disaster). If after visual inspection you notice problems with the seal, it is best to replace it.

Freon leak

Symptoms: the compressor motor runs too long, almost without pauses, a sharp rise in temperature in the chambers is possible.

One of the most common causes of problems in the operation of the refrigerator chamber is freon leakage: no refrigerant - no cooling. The standard reason is when you tried to speed up the defrost, you were helping yourself with a sharp object and overdone it. Natural wear and tear of the evaporator tubes is not excluded, of course, because of which cracks appear in them, especially in old refrigerators. It happens, by the way, the opposite situation - an excess of freon, but the consequences are the same. Call the master: he will seal the holes and fill the refrigerator with freon to normal.

Clogged cooling system

The free passage of freon to the evaporator tubes can be prevented by a blockage in the cooling circuit system, for example, in a capillary tube. Only the master can eliminate this problem: with the help of special equipment, he will blow through the circuit and refuel freon, if necessary.

Drainage hole clogged

Symptoms: ice and frost on the walls of the refrigerator compartment, and water has accumulated below

If, during thawing, foreign objects enter the drainage hole that interfere with the flow of water, it will accumulate at the bottom of the chamber, evaporate and turn into ice on the walls of the refrigerating chamber: it is clear that any ice in the chamber impairs its cooling. You just need to clean the drainage hole, it will not hurt and rinse with a solution of potassium permanganate.

The thermostat is out of order

Symptoms: The compressor is running too hard, with little or no pause.

If the thermostat (or temperature sensor or air sensor) is broken, the control board receives incorrect information about the temperature in the chamber and the control module issues incorrect commands to the compressor.

To check that the sensor is the culprit, you can temporarily disconnect it and connect the contacts directly: if the compressor starts to work more quietly, then the sensor is faulty and it is better to replace it. But we still advise you to contact a specialist, because installing the wrong sensor or its inaccurate connection can damage a much more expensive unit: a control board or a compressor.

Failure in the control module

Symptoms: the compressor is working intensively, pauses in its work are chaotic.

A broken electronic control module may give incorrect commands to the compressor, which do not correspond to the real situation with the temperature in the chambers. Here, one cannot do without calling the wizard: he will either update the module's firmware or replace it.

Compressor broke

Symptoms: you can't hear the compressor motor running.

The most unpleasant case is the breakdown of an expensive compressor: it is rarely repairable, as a rule, it has to be replaced. This should, of course, be done only by a specialist from a specialized service, who will provide him with reliable components, high-quality tools and additional equipment, detailed technical documentation.

If you have a refrigerator with two compressors, then it is quite possible that the very chamber for which the broken compressor is responsible will stop freezing, while the other will work normally.

Problems with No Frost

Symptoms: ice crust on the walls, water in the sump, the fan does not work or runs constantly.

The No frost system functions differently than the standard drip cooling system, and the fan in the freezer plays an important role in this: without it, the cold air will not be distributed throughout the chamber and cool the food. It is very simple to make sure that the fan works: its motor emits a slight characteristic noise. A typical reason is that there is a lot of ice on the fan blades, they are frozen: you urgently need to defrost the refrigerator.

But the opposite problem also happens: the fan runs constantly, without the usual pauses. This means that the refrigerator cannot be cooled to the desired temperature: see the description of possible causes in this article. But first, make sure you don't put food on the poor fan.

The No Frost system functions differently than a standard drip cooling system, and the fan in the freezer plays an important role in this: without it, the cold air will not be distributed throughout the chamber and cool the food. It is very simple to make sure that the fan works: its motor emits a slight characteristic noise. A typical reason is that there is a lot of ice on the fan blades, they are frozen: you urgently need to defrost the refrigerator.

In refrigerators with a dry-freeze system, the heating element sometimes burns out, due to which the fan blades can become overgrown with ice. Only an experienced specialist can install this and replace a faulty heating element.