Electronics b1 01 turntable head.

Electrophone "Elektronika B1-01" has been producing the Kazan plant of radio components since 1975. The top-class stereophonic electrophone "Elektronika B1-01" consists of four separate functional blocks: a stereophonic electric player, a stereo audio frequency amplifier and two acoustic speakers. A three-speed (45, 33, 16 rpm) top-class "0-EPU-1S" electro-playing device is used in the block of the electric player. Detonation coefficient 0.2%. The speeds in the EPU are switched by a push-button switch that changes the generator voltage frequency. A low-speed condenser synchronous electric motor of the "TSK-1" type was used as an electric motor. The turntable has a metal tubular tonearm, statically balanced in all planes. EPU has a shear force compensator, microlift and a device for adjusting the weight brought to the end of the needle. The tonearm is equipped with a GZM-003 magnetoelectric head operating at a reduced weight of 20 mN. The range of operating frequencies of the EPU is not more than 20..20000 Hz. High-quality two-channel stereo amplifier of the model is designed to work with various sources of sound programs. Its rated output power in each channel is 60 W. Nonlinear distortion factor 0.5%. The bass amplifier provides a stereo balance adjustment, separate adjustment of the bass and treble timbre. It is possible to connect two speakers simultaneously in each channel. The stereo amplifier has a separate indication of the output signal level in each channel with arrow indicators, a light signaling of the amplifier overload, the presence of filters for high and low frequencies, a device for turning off loudness and separate turning off the speaker. The model uses closed-type speakers with a volume of 54 liters, each of which consists of two loudspeakers 10GD-30 and four ZGD-31. The dimensions of an electric player are 170x465x385 mm, a low-frequency amplifier is 490x300x110 mm, and one speaker system is 630x340x250 mm. The weight of individual devices is 15, 20 and 30 kg, respectively.

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Preamble:
In 11th grade, I took all the discarded junk from the music school. Of the entire assortment, I was not given only one turntable, as it turned out later it was the first version of the Elektronika B1-01 turntable with a tonearm as close as possible to sme3009. Three years later, when I again returned to vinyl as a source of music, a wild anger took me that I did not take it away first of all, but left it at the end, and perhaps I would have had it for a long time.
In 2006 I bought myself a beshechka from a local huckster in a terrible state. The bottom of the shaft was loose and all the grease was leaking out, the bead was stretched, there was no anti-skating weight, the hull was falling apart.
The first thing when I brought it home, I assembled the turntable body. The bottom was made by someone new from foil PCB, but I immediately took it off and put it aside.
I don't remember where I got Pasik from, he scored on anti-skating. In general, there were a lot of all sorts of minor improvements, but globally I did not deal with the guard. The eternal problem of the behi is the crumbling body, or rather the wooden corners to which the legs are screwed. Under the weight, the hull was constantly falling through. A month ago, finally getting angry with his beshka, he disassembled the body into four planks and began to assemble it.

First of all, I ripped off the remnants of the old glue and sanded everything. After that I glued the boards together. Then I cut out a new bottom from 12mm plywood, to which I glued the body. I don't remember just what happened first, glued a sheet of plywood and cut out holes in the bottom, or vice versa, cut out the holes, and then glued the bottom. In general, in the end, the bottom turned out in the form of a cross, so that you can screw on the chassis and adjust the cups with springs.
After gluing, glued the trees in the corners. With them, the main problem was what to press. If someone repeats, I advise you to buy two clamps to press tightly.
When I finished all the sizing work, I removed the old paint along the contour of the bottom (black) with a sandpaper and at the same time aligned the new bottom and the contour of the old hull around the perimeter.
The most difficult stage was to level the sanded part with a putty. I used wood putty, leveled it with small and wide spatulas, and also a tricky device from the corner for windows. The usual corner, which is screwed onto wooden windows, cut off only one part and turned the inner fillet into a right angle. Thus, the long part led along the bottom, and the narrow part at an angle of 90 degrees leveled the putty around the perimeter of the guardhouse.

The final stage was painting with black acrylic. Before painting, try on unnecessary plywood, I had to dilute it heavily with water so that the paint lay evenly.

The result is a reinforced case, where all the weight falls not on the corners, but a new 12 mm plywood bottom. The legs were used from the sonata guard, because one of the native legs has fallen into disrepair, but I would prefer to keep the original legs.
After installing the chassis, one of the fixing screws of the transformer began to rest against the bottom, so I removed the trans and decided to make the power supply external.
Now I am reworking the electronic part of the guardhouse. As already said, the power supply is taken overboard (trans, rectifier, conduits), for the first time I will leave the stroboscope at 220V, and later I'm going to convert it to LED. At first I wanted to throw out the solenoid of the tonearm, but decided to leave it, let it be. It works only when the tonearm is raised and should not give interference. I am not going to alter the control circuit of the solenoid and the engine turn-on relay, I just want to put the power regulator of the relays from the main board on a separate board, where the power will come from the external power supply, and be routed to the rest of the turntable units, plus additionally plug in a couple of 2000 μF capacitors.
But that's enough for today. When I do the electronic part, I'll post a report. Then I will deal directly with the arm, the table and everything else.

Vinyl to play the Highest group of complexity "Electronics B1-01" from the musical complex of the same name.

In addition to the turntable, the complex "Electronics B1-01" included an amplifier and acoustics (by the way, 16 ohms!), But more on that later. I (scorpic) will not reveal a big secret by telling you that "B1-01" is a copy (and the "younger" version is, the less so) the cult Thorens td125 player in its time. I will also not tell you about how the Georgian craftsmen methodically "hacked" Thorens, it has been written about this without me.

There were three modifications of "Electronics" (its clones, and there were such, we do not consider). The first modification was almost 100% tracing paper from Thorens. (why almost - because the changes mainly affected only the transition to the metric system and bringing the mechanical units to the standard ones that fit into the Soviet GOST. Naturally, the engine control was "pulled" under the Soviet element base. The second - "optimized" the tonearm assembly (removed the possibility of changing distance from the center of the plate, made the sub-chassis one-piece, without a separate platform for the tonearm) and changed the electronics (element base, introduction of hitchhiking and electronic microlift). The third is essentially a modification of the second. In it, the changes only affected the electronics (the element base and topology were changed) Here, in fact, I came across a turntable of the third modification.

I bought it as not working, no belt and no signs of life. My copy was released in July 1980, and it has survived very well (I'm talking about cosmetics).

To begin with, I had to open the factory seals to inspect the insides.

It became visually clear that nothing burned ... Actually in the photo - the insides of Electronics B1-01.

The electric motor is 1980, as evidenced by the signature on the body thereof.