Lantern fo dik an 0 005. LED current indicator in circuits with capacitive ballast - Structures of simple complexity - Schemes for beginners

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There are times in every person's life when lighting is needed, but no electricity. It can be a banal power outage, and the need to repair the wiring in the house, and possibly a forest trip or something similar.

And, of course, everyone knows that in this case, only an electric flashlight will help out - a compact and at the same time functional device. Now on the electrical engineering market there are many different types of this product. These are ordinary lamps with incandescent lamps, and LED, with rechargeable batteries and batteries. And there are a great many companies producing these devices - "Dick", "Lux", "Cosmos", etc.

But what is the principle of its work, not many people think. And meanwhile, knowing the device and circuit of an electric flashlight, you can, if necessary, repair it or even assemble it with your own hands. Let's try to figure it out in this question.

The simplest lanterns

Since flashlights are different, it makes sense to start with the simplest - with a battery and an incandescent lamp, and also consider its possible malfunctions. The scheme of such a device is elementary.

In fact, it has nothing but a battery, a power button and a light bulb. And therefore there are no special problems with him. Here are some possible minor annoyances that could lead to the failure of such a flashlight:

• Oxidation of any of the contacts. These can be contacts of a switch, a light bulb, or a battery. You just need to clean these circuit elements, and the device will work again.
• Burnout of an incandescent lamp - everything is simple here, replacing the light element will solve this problem.
• Full discharge of batteries - replacement of batteries with new ones (or charging, if they are rechargeable).
• Loss of contact or broken wire. If the flashlight is no longer new, then it makes sense to change all the wires. This is not at all difficult to do.

LED flashlight

This type of lantern has a more powerful luminous flux and at the same time consumes very little energy, which means that the batteries in it will last longer. It's all about the design of the light elements - there is no filament in LEDs, they do not consume energy for heating, therefore the efficiency of such devices is 80-85% higher. The role of additional equipment in the form of a converter with the participation of a transistor, a resistor and a high-frequency transformer is also great.

If the flashlight battery is built-in, then a charger is included with it.

The circuit of such a lamp consists of one or more LEDs, a voltage converter, a switch and a battery. In earlier flashlight models, the amount of energy consumed by LEDs had to match that of the source.

Now this problem has been solved by using a voltage converter (also called a multiplier). Actually, it is he who is the main part that contains the electrical circuit of the flashlight.

If you want to make such a device with your own hands, there will be no particular difficulties. The transistor, resistor and diodes are not a problem. The hardest part will be winding a high frequency transformer on a ferrite ring called a blocking generator.

But even this can be dealt with by taking a similar ring from a faulty electronic ballast of an energy-saving lamp. Although, of course, if you don't want to mess around or don't have time, then you can find highly efficient converters on sale, such as the 8115. With their help, using a transistor and a resistor, it became possible to manufacture an LED flashlight on one battery.

The very same circuit of an LED flashlight is similar to the simplest device, and you should not dwell on it, since even a child can assemble it.

By the way, when using a voltage converter in the circuit on an old, simplest flashlight, powered by a 4.5 volt square battery, which you cannot buy now, you can safely put a 1.5 volt battery, that is, the usual "finger" or "little finger" battery. There will be no loss in the luminous flux. The main task in this case is to have at least the slightest idea of \u200b\u200bradio engineering, literally at the level of knowledge of what a transistor is, and also to be able to hold a soldering iron in your hands.

Refinement of Chinese lanterns

Sometimes it happens that a purchased (seemingly quite high-quality) flashlight with a battery completely fails. And it is not at all necessary that the buyer is to blame for improper operation, although this also occurs. More often it is a mistake when assembling a Chinese flashlight in pursuit of quantity at the expense of quality.

Of course, in this case, you will have to redo it, somehow modernize it, because the money has been spent. Now you need to understand how to do this and whether it is possible to compete with a Chinese manufacturer and repair such a device yourself.

Considering the most common option, in which when the device is turned on to the network, the charging indicator lights up, but the flashlight does not charge and does not work, you can notice this.

A common manufacturer's mistake is that the charge indicator (LED) is included in the circuit in parallel with the battery, which should not be allowed. At the same time, the buyer turns on the flashlight, and seeing that it does not burn, again supplies power to the charge. As a result, all LEDs burn out at once.

The fact is that not all manufacturers indicate that it is impossible to charge such devices with the LEDs on, since it will be impossible to repair them, all that remains is to replace them.

So, the task of modernization is to connect the charge indicator in series with the battery.

As you can see from the diagram, this problem is quite solvable.

But if the Chinese put a 0118 resistor in their product, then the LEDs will have to be changed constantly, since the current supplied to them will be very high, and no matter what light elements are installed, they will not withstand the load.

LED headlamp

In recent years, such a light device has become quite widespread. Indeed, it is very convenient when the hands are free, and the beam of light hits where the person is looking, this is precisely the main advantage of a headlamp. Previously, only miners could boast of this, and even then, to wear it, they needed a helmet, on which the lantern, in fact, was attached.

Now the fastening of such a device is convenient, it can be worn under any circumstances, and a rather voluminous and heavy battery does not hang on the belt, which, moreover, must also be charged once a day. The modern one is much smaller and lighter, moreover, it has very low energy consumption.

So what is such a lantern? And the principle of its operation is not at all different from the LED. Execution options are the same - rechargeable or with removable batteries. The number of LEDs varies from 3 to 24 depending on the characteristics of the battery and inverter.

In addition, such lights usually have 4 glow modes, and not one. It is weak, medium, strong and signaling - when the LEDs blink at short intervals.

The modes of the LED headlamp are controlled by the microcontroller. Moreover, if it is available, even a stroboscope mode is possible. In addition, this does not harm the LEDs at all, unlike incandescent lamps, since their service life does not depend on the number of on-off cycles due to the absence of an incandescent filament.

So which lantern should you choose?

Of course, flashlights can be different in terms of voltage consumption (from 1.5 to 12 V), and with different switches (touch or mechanical), with the presence of an audible warning about the battery discharge. It can be the original or its analogues. And it is not always possible to determine what kind of device is in front of your eyes. Indeed, until it fails and its repair begins, it is impossible to see which microcircuit or transistor is in it. Probably, it is better to choose the one that you like, and to solve possible problems as soon as they arrive.

Let's take a rechargeable flashlight from DiK, Lux or Cosmos as a sample (see photo). This pocket flashlight is compact, comfortable in the hand and has a fairly large reflector - 55.8 mm in diameter, the LED matrix of which has 5 white LEDs, which provides a good and large illumination spot.

In addition, the shape of the flashlight is familiar to everyone, and to many from childhood, in one word - a brand. The charger is located inside the flashlight itself; you just need to remove the cover from the back and plug it into an outlet. But, nothing stands still and this design of the flashlight has also undergone changes, especially its internal filling. The latest model at the moment is DIK AN 0-005 (or DiK-5 EURO).

Earlier versions are DIK AN 0-002 and DIK AN 0-003 differ in that they contained disc batteries (3 pcs), Ni-Cd series D-025 and D-026, with a capacity of 250 mA / hour, or models АН 0-003 - assembly of newer D-026D batteries with a larger capacity, 320 mA / h and incandescent bulbs for 3.5 or 2.5 V, with a current consumption of 150 and 260 mA, respectively. The LED, for comparison, consumes about 10 mA and even a matrix of 5 pieces is 50 mA.

Of course, with such characteristics, the flashlight could not shine for a long time, its maximum was enough for 1 hour, especially the first models.

What is it about the latest DIK AN 0-005 flashlight?

Well, firstly - an LED matrix of 5 LEDs, as opposed to 3 or incandescent bulbs, which gives much more light with less current consumption, and secondly - in the flashlight there is only 1 finger modern Ni-MH battery for 1.2 -1.5 V and capacity from 1000 to 2700 mAh.

Some will ask, how can a 1.2 V finger battery "light up" the LEDs, because they need about 3.5 V to shine brightly? For this reason, earlier models installed 3 batteries in series and received 3.6 V.

But, here I don't know who was the first to invent, the Chinese or someone else, to make a voltage converter (multiplier) from 1.2 V to 3.5 V. The circuit is simple, in Chinese flashlights these are just 2 parts - a resistor and a radio component similar for a transistor marked - 8122 or 8116, or SS510, or SK5B. SS510 is a Schottky diode.

Such a flashlight shines well, brightly, and, which is not unimportant - for a long time, and the charge-discharge cycles are not 150, as in previous models, but much more, which increases the service life at times. But!! In order for the LED flashlight to serve for a long time, you need to plug it into a 220 V outlet when it is off! If this rule is not adhered to, then when charging, you can easily burn out the Schottky diode (SS510), and often LEDs at the same time.

I once had to repair a DIK AN 0-005 flashlight. I don't know exactly what caused it to fail, but I assume that they plugged it into a power outlet and forgot it for several days, although according to the passport it is necessary to charge no more than 20 hours. In short, the battery failed, flowed, and 3 out of 5 LEDs burned out, plus the converter (diode) also stopped working.

I had a 2700 mAh finger battery, it was left from an old camera, LEDs too, but finding a part - SS510 (Schottky diode) turned out to be problematic. This LED flashlight is most likely of Chinese origin, and such a part can probably only be bought there. And then I decided to mold the voltage converter from those parts that are, i.e. from domestic: transistor KT315 or KT815, high-frequency transformer and others (see diagram).

The circuit is not new, it has existed for a long time, I only used it in this flashlight. True, instead of 2 radio components, like the Chinese, I got 3, but free.

The electrical circuit, as you can see, is an elementary, the most difficult thing is to wind the HF transformer on a ferrite ring. The ring can be used from an old switching power supply, from a computer, or from an energy-saving non-working light bulb (see photo).

The outer diameter of the ferrite ring is 10-15 mm, the thickness is approximately 3-4 mm. It is necessary to wind 2 windings of 30 turns with a wire of 0.2-0.3 mm, that is, we wind first 30 turns, then we make a branch from the middle and another 30. If you take the ferrite ring from the board of a fluorescent lamp - it is better to use 2 pieces, fold them together. The circuit will work on one ring too, but the glow will be weaker.

I compared 2 flashlights for a glow, the original (Chinese) and converted according to the above scheme - I almost did not see any differences in brightness. The converter, by the way, can be inserted not only into a rechargeable flashlight, but also into a regular one, which runs on batteries, then it will be possible to power it from just 1 battery of 1.5 V.

The charger circuit of the flashlight has hardly changed, except for the denominations of some parts. The charging current is approximately 25 mA. When charging, the flashlight must be turned off! And do not turn on the switch while charging, since the charging voltage is more than 2 times higher than the battery voltage, and if it goes to the converter and increases, the LEDs will have to be partially or completely changed ...

In principle, according to the above scheme, an LED flashlight can be easily made with your own hands, by mounting it, for example, in the body of some old, even the most ancient flashlight, or you can make the body yourself.

And in order not to change the structure of the switch of the old flashlight, where a small incandescent light bulb of 2.5-3.5 V was used, you need to break the already burned out light bulb and solder 3-4 white LEDs to the base, instead of a glass bulb.

And also, for charging, mount the connector under the power cord from an old printer or receiver. But, I want to draw your attention, if the body of the flashlight is metal - do not mount the charger there, but make it portable, i.e. separately. It is not at all difficult to remove the finger battery from the flashlight and insert it into the charger. And don't forget to isolate everything well! Especially in those places where there is a voltage of 220 V.

I think that after the alteration, the old flashlight will serve you for more than one year ...

SL Elkin, Zhitomir

New rechargeable flashlight (ACF) of Russian production of the Fo-Dik trademark, model AN 0-005 with Chinese disk accumulators (Fig. 1)

worked somehow unstable, accumulators (AK) either gave an electrical capacity, then no. For more convenient operation (including for detecting malfunctions in the operation of the charger), an LED indicator of the charge current was installed in it, the diagram of which is shown in Fig. 2.

For a while the ACF worked normally, and then the LED stopped glowing. Checking the LED VD3 and resistor R3 showed that they are working properly. The reason for the inoperability was the defect of the ballast capacitor C1, the actual capacity of which turned out to be an order of magnitude lower, i.e. 47 nF! In addition, defects in imported capacitors of this type occur in the practice of ACF repair, and quite often.
Since the new capacitor was not at hand, I decided to recharge the batteries (on the case of which the designations Ni-Cd CELL B280K are applied) from a DC source. To speed up the charging process, I briefly set the charging current to 100 mA. And what made me happy - the AK did not get warm at all! After a four-hour charge (two-fold recharge in capacity), I switched on the AK to discharge a 3.5 V x 0.15 A light bulb, which shone for about 1.5 hours. From this I concluded that everything was fine with the AK. Well, if modern AKs do not heat up at a higher (against the accepted for sealed - 0.1 of the electric capacity) charge current, I set the ballast capacity twice as much, i.e. 1 μF.
I connected a 100 Ohm resistor in parallel with the existing shunt, reducing it by half. After 2-3 trial connections to the network, the LED is out of order! It became clear that the dependence of the voltage drop across the shunt on the capacitance value is significantly nonlinear, so I installed a shunt with a resistance of 12 ohms. When the ACF was connected to the network, the LED flashed and went out, although the charge current was! This clearly confirmed the pulse nature of the current change through the LED indicator in the circuit with capacitive ballast in the initial phase.

It was necessary, the cook says, to return to "our rams" - he made a selection of the shunt in a stationary mode with direct current. The resulting parameters are shown in line 1 of the table.

However, after some time of operation of the ACF, the LED with a shunt resistor with a nominal value of 24 Ohm still failed!
It became clear that transient impulse processes (like the east) are a delicate matter, and that the reasons for the failure of the indicator (with a ballast capacitor of 1 μF) will have to be dealt with seriously.
Since the failure of the LED from the application of reverse voltage is unlikely, since it is connected in series with the rectifier diode, I assumed that it fails during a series of pulses ("bounce" of contacts - this is how it is convenient to represent the processes occurring in the circuit at the moment of connecting the ACF to the network). It is then that the voltage drop across the shunt also increases, as a result of which the pulsed current through the LED, although for a short time, significantly exceeds the permissible value, and this leads to its failure.
In order not to engage in careful selection of the shunt, the value of which may differ from the values \u200b\u200bof the standard series resistors, in order to automatically limit the amplitude of the voltage pulse that occurs on the shunt (and therefore on the LED), I decided to install a KS133A zener diode parallel to it, using it as a suppressor.
To check the circuit design, a circuit was assembled (Fig. 4)

and measurements of the voltage drop across the shunt were carried out in various modes, to a certain extent simulating the nature of the current change through the ballast capacitor during its primary charging. The measurements were carried out on a direct current from a source with a regulated output voltage with a constant value of the shunt resistance equal to 24 Ohm.
From row 2 of the table, it can be seen that already with a voltage drop across the shunt equal to 2 V, the current through VD2 is equal to the maximum.
That is why to limit the current through the LED when the voltage drop across the shunt is 3.3 V (line 3 of the table), a resistor R3 is introduced into the circuit in series with VD2.
As follows from line 3 of the table, the current through the LED when R3 is introduced also does not exceed 20 mA.
When the charger switches to stationary mode 2 (line 4 of the table), the current through VD2 with R3 connected in series decreases to 1.5 mA, which, when using the AL307A LED (red glow), is visually quite distinguishable even in sunlight.
In order to check the reliability of the LED indicator in a circuit with a capacitive ballast, the modernized ACF (Fig. 5)

was removed and installed into a power outlet 100 times in a row - while there were no tangible changes in the brightness of the glow visually noticed. The LED indicator with a zener diode suppressor worked properly, no LED failure occurred!
The experiment carried out allows us to draw a practical conclusion that, due to the nature of the transient processes occurring, for reasons of sufficient reliability, it is still possible to use a simple resistive shunt with a ballast capacity of up to 0.5 μF for an indicator on an LED, and already at 1 μF and higher - only in combination with a shunt - suppressor - current limiting resistor.


Literature
1. Tereshchuk P.M. and others. Small-sized radio equipment. Handbook of radio amateurs // Kiev, Naukova Dumka, 1971.
2. Reference sheet. Transient voltage suppressors // Radioamator. -1999.-Nc2.-C.3l
3. Tereshchuk P.M. and others. Semiconductor receiving and amplifying device. Handbook of a parental lover // Kiev, Naukova Dumka, 1988.